tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41273104792270200742024-03-05T05:46:32.935-08:00Better Nerf By Scienceazraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-31574011490433034802014-10-12T20:01:00.003-07:002014-10-12T20:15:19.615-07:00Quick 3rd Hand Build Run Through<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I wouldn't call this a guide, but it should be enough for you to build your own. A station like this is much more maneuverable and useful than a standard third hand.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">There are other guides out there like this one, but many of them are outdated or don't include parts' sources. There are also some methods of construction that I use that may be easier than these aforementioned guides. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Instructions after the jump!</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /><br />Materials needed:<br /> - Drill. I used a drill press, but I'm sure you can manage with a hand drill.</span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>7/16" Drill Bit</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>Table Vice.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - WD-40</span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>Adjustable Tap Handle, like the one pictured here: </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>Tap, 1/4 Npt Pipe Size, 18 Threads Per Inch (McMaster part: 2525A113)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>1/4 NPT Coolant Hoses (eBay link <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/400335309459" target="_blank">here</a>)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>8-32 Threaded Alligator Clips (McMaster part: 7236K86)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>8-32 Flat Screws, 1" Length (McMaster part:91500A199)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> - </span>Something for the base. I used a block of aluminum from McMaster. 8975K78</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br />First, take your base, and drill a 7/16" hole in whatever position you prefer.I went all the way through the aluminum, you can just drill it as deep as you need it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I chamfered the hole a bit to make it easier to center the tap.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Secure the tap in the tap handle, and place the base into the vice.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Center the tap as best as you can. I suck, so mine is only mostly centered. But it works. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Spray some WD-40 into the hole, to ease tapping the thread.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Now put some elbow grease into it. You're going to have to manually turn that, and it gets more difficult as the threads go deeper. I threaded it enough to make it the hoses go all the way into the base.</span><br />
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This doesn't require the hole to be fully threaded, just enough. <br />
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Next, we prepare the coolant hoses.<br />
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Angle the hose end like this and just keep pushing to pop it off the blue assembly.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Widen the outlet on the hose end by maybe 1mm, so that way you can thread a flat head screw through it. It needs to sit as far in the hose end as possible to prevent movement issues.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">You can see a bit of a a space above the screw's face. This will let the blue assembly to rotate freely still.<br /><br />Thread the alligator clip on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I saw other guides that had different methods of attaching an alligator clip, but I thought this was a very very simple way to do it, and would be effective, too. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Replace the hose end back on the blue assembly, and twist the coolant hose into the base.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">You can add as many coolant hose arms as you think are neccesary. I think I'll add a few more to mine later.</span>azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-72936708675851649912014-03-02T15:54:00.004-08:002014-03-02T18:26:29.086-08:00It stopped raining here for a bit, so I went outside to do some nerfing.Just experimenting with a different method of making a hopper. I don't know if anyone does this, but I feel like it makes it feed better.<br />
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But first! The Aabow! I recommend this build to anyone looking to build their first homemade blaster. Very simple, without a strict need for specialized tools, no specialized components (McMaster's K26 springs for example), and no precise measurements needed. It's one of the most simple homemades out there (plunger to barrel, basically.), with very consistent results. I built a few of them, and they worked pretty well right off the bat.<br />
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This is basically <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/mostlyharmlessarms/currentprojects/new-aabow-actually-a-bow">KaneTheMediocre's latest Aabow iteration</a>, with some small differences, like the style of plunger shown in <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/mostlyharmlessarms/currentprojects/new-aabow-actually-a-bow">bchamp22795's Aabow youtube build instructions</a>. It seems to seal fairly well, considering most of the bow in my build is not glued. I built some exactly like bchamp's bows, but I was not satisfied with their arm tension, as it seemed to weaken significantly after use. Kane's latest Aabow uses steel conduit in the bow arms, resulting in a rigid cross that seems to hold up well. I'm a bit concerned about deadspace, but I haven't thought of a good way to reduce it right now.<br />
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I'm still experimenting with barrel length and material. I have CPVC in the picture, but with the new style of hopper/barrel, I was also getting good results with the butyrate tubing I got from McMaster.<br />
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I don't have work in progress pics, because science. Here's a picture of the wye.<br />
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I grinded away the bottom of the inside ridge to allow for a fluted barrel. </div>
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The idea behind the barrel is that the darts will be able to enter the barrel at a higher setting. They're in a better position to be seated into the chamfered edge of the barrel. This should result in better feeding, less wasted air, and better dart compatibility. This idea came about when I was talking to someone about AMIORs (putty core felt tipped darts) and their dislike for PETG in a hopper system. Their angle of entry into the barrel really influenced their performance, but in a more simple tank-to-barrel system, AMIORs worked fine. </div>
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You can see the angle of the dart's tip is less pronounced at the bottom of the wye now. It is closer to the center of the entrance of the barrel.</div>
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This helped out a lot with feeding, in my case.</div>
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azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-80833470114807637092014-02-12T12:34:00.001-08:002014-02-12T12:37:34.575-08:00MEGA PantherJust bored around the workshop.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLwCGGil74-y6rWiOEBIryYkCJhmQOkyFI94Ulp5nMifQ-DHQAiBkvylPKYEm-4T1QFYcocCYtdajeirUyG3YpJycZt39wytKIPy-T98RfeBds9KTD673OtSqMlEPT4lMpUH0dHg4n_w/s1600/Photo+Feb+12,+10+41+20+AM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLwCGGil74-y6rWiOEBIryYkCJhmQOkyFI94Ulp5nMifQ-DHQAiBkvylPKYEm-4T1QFYcocCYtdajeirUyG3YpJycZt39wytKIPy-T98RfeBds9KTD673OtSqMlEPT4lMpUH0dHg4n_w/s1600/Photo+Feb+12,+10+41+20+AM.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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What's more fun than a Panther? A Panther that shoots large ammo! <br />
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My local home depot has 3/4" sched 40 PVC that is a pretty perfect fit for air blasters. It's a litle more snug than that, actually. Haven't chrony'd but it looks to be going at least 110-120 fps, with about 12-15 pumps.</div>
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<br />azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-18146125952699438732014-02-05T02:20:00.003-08:002014-02-05T12:25:48.898-08:00Air Zone Xtreme Darts! EXTREME! SNAP INTO A SLIM JIM!Snagged these today after a tip on reddit posted by <a href="http://buffdaddynerf.blogspot.com/2014/02/giant-toysruscom-discounts-11-magnus.html">BuffDaddy Nerf</a>.<br />
While infamous was tweaking the 3D printer we got, I was playing with these new darts, taking some measurements, and enjoying a cold beer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJB1AqPRPAudpOKnFK4B_ItbdBu1DjT7vGILzvQlpWnoniKgprpa056EWvzSjgRQbO8pK9x8aF86-tE0C4O5LcqUxxXD9O4FHNOorJ1mJRwH_Bgi99nxiI_KFjGuedTYGS903YYO754c/s1600/photo+5%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJB1AqPRPAudpOKnFK4B_ItbdBu1DjT7vGILzvQlpWnoniKgprpa056EWvzSjgRQbO8pK9x8aF86-tE0C4O5LcqUxxXD9O4FHNOorJ1mJRwH_Bgi99nxiI_KFjGuedTYGS903YYO754c/s1600/photo+5%25283%2529.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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More after the jump! </div>
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My first impression is that I've impressed by the foam. It's just as good as Elite foam, while being a completely different texture than the "Extreme" darts that have a suction cup. But there are some differences from Elite darts that we should note.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrd-gZlRgAgsyS_ZlPI7YR0nmZNKgOIlxtQVFEeJ8DZ_z3JN7ZKoacgDzlaPL8O9Ir9-wKj-Uzd9QQ9nV3K_VeDYNWzRXrsTMXXcLujO-rxJe-AoOaFdNdfzu4FE_QDHga-tbTSkSrgHM/s1600/photo+5%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrd-gZlRgAgsyS_ZlPI7YR0nmZNKgOIlxtQVFEeJ8DZ_z3JN7ZKoacgDzlaPL8O9Ir9-wKj-Uzd9QQ9nV3K_VeDYNWzRXrsTMXXcLujO-rxJe-AoOaFdNdfzu4FE_QDHga-tbTSkSrgHM/s1600/photo+5%25281%2529.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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For example, the Extreme dart is noticeably shorter than the Elite dart. The Elite is about 2.85 inches, whereas the Extreme is about 2.6. This is pretty important for some of our blasters, as I'll explain later.<br />
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It seems that the Extreme darts are slightly smaller. Will this make a difference in the bolt/barrel of a blaster? <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqpBPO0Vd3yPOyqs6ZuEuHUxpgGpUr8Zki2CHi80aq2qsmfjt_ez-u4Bjpne4aomur2gb6jPhRd1DLeGmefjilzz9_BAqrh1H3chrhNa3kpr45HDE6tHgipRhBF-Wb93gO26CVBtlbx0/s1600/photo+1(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqpBPO0Vd3yPOyqs6ZuEuHUxpgGpUr8Zki2CHi80aq2qsmfjt_ez-u4Bjpne4aomur2gb6jPhRd1DLeGmefjilzz9_BAqrh1H3chrhNa3kpr45HDE6tHgipRhBF-Wb93gO26CVBtlbx0/s1600/photo+1(2).JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Exreme dart is slightly lighter than an Elite dart. I measured a few darts, coming up with an average 0.882 grams. Is this a good thing or bad thing? I'm not sure, really. Yes, a heavier tip CAN be more accurate, as in the case of stefans and suction tip Micros. But since the dart itself is shorter, is the weight more distributed in the tip now, also contributing to accuracy? Plus, a lighter dart will technically move at a faster FPS than a heavier one since it requires less energy to move. A chrony will be the telling factor here. <br />
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SACRIFICE! I took apart some darts to take some measurements. One thing to note is that the reason why there is a black ring around the tip is the this is the stem. The stem is a flexible and soft rubber element.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_1gjsHl9tevDcbnq2Qio1uqHXzUobukoOZCCTZwxmoTApZXUknMr-S9AYrh21OYq5g9dJWJDNcsHBFfD1VmIBtGgJI4QeNR5Mb8Fd-iiIE68a5nrBOFCP8KNq2zmQ7s8Ra9Z9t2Y3jI/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_1gjsHl9tevDcbnq2Qio1uqHXzUobukoOZCCTZwxmoTApZXUknMr-S9AYrh21OYq5g9dJWJDNcsHBFfD1VmIBtGgJI4QeNR5Mb8Fd-iiIE68a5nrBOFCP8KNq2zmQ7s8Ra9Z9t2Y3jI/s1600/photo+3.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Our handy dandy scale reveals all! The percentage of weight in the tip is the same in both darts, approximately 70% of the total dart weight is in the tip. So probably no accuracy issues due to dart weight distribution.<br />
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You can see consistency issues in this bunch of darts, where the glue used on them differs in quantity and distribution. A little disappointing, but it's still better than some Chinese darts I've seen where the tip wasn't glued on well. Every tip here is glued on well, and placed squarely on the foam. It's possible that the excess glue could increase jams, but I did not experience any.<br />
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Time for some chrony data!<br />
Just a small sample size because I'm busy enjoying a bottle of Stone. I chose a stock Retaliator.<br />
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Elite</div>
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74.81</div>
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78.83</div>
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77.21</div>
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77.26</div>
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76.08</div>
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71.88</div>
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72.72</div>
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72.55</div>
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73.14</div>
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75.85</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAJ-Abr9rAjyGJdeHVfvGFjr61q6AJg7QYvrdy_VFsknGfnv8tIsy5K4ji2dqz-1UB6UxoxnRlJc-EdpasW_rRoO0WGuQ_MJmHHjAsxgs5nmH0ZbGsAMdjRKh52D20KttAAO_l93_wxKE/s1600/elite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAJ-Abr9rAjyGJdeHVfvGFjr61q6AJg7QYvrdy_VFsknGfnv8tIsy5K4ji2dqz-1UB6UxoxnRlJc-EdpasW_rRoO0WGuQ_MJmHHjAsxgs5nmH0ZbGsAMdjRKh52D20KttAAO_l93_wxKE/s1600/elite.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Extreme</div>
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76.88</div>
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72.09</div>
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71.51</div>
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71.47</div>
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77.02</div>
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72.93</div>
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79.37</div>
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78.91</div>
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77.3</div>
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79.11</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyVRkmBx-o8QstMeOtZB2uyzwJHcZ52bbslhb1McCD5irLHdz1wQyeHy-_jIJXYPGNopMuhLg7t7jWCGyajbfSvYRySXDKYmEMTd7Ae4jHQraakwwHAfT_Yz4w436w9Tu6PpVdudXd94Qs/s1600/extreme.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyVRkmBx-o8QstMeOtZB2uyzwJHcZ52bbslhb1McCD5irLHdz1wQyeHy-_jIJXYPGNopMuhLg7t7jWCGyajbfSvYRySXDKYmEMTd7Ae4jHQraakwwHAfT_Yz4w436w9Tu6PpVdudXd94Qs/s1600/extreme.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'd say that overall, the Extremes and Elites perform nearly the same. The Extreme darts have a significant higher standard deviation, meaning that their FPS outputs were less consistent then those of the Elites. This corresponds with the above mentioning of the Extremes' higher manufacturing variations compared to the Elites.<br />
I'm pretty comfortable with these conclusions. Now, the issue of a shorter dart length. Does it actually go into the bolt enough to grab the smaller inner diameter of the bolt, the section that creates the seal? Does the smaller OD of the dart affect it? The chrony data suggests that it functions just fine. As a precaution, I peered down the front of the blaster.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIlLb2odGFTQsYdAHOxZrLyEaY6BdJTW8i3kPZtEbMIXLos8c2hjM-XqMccuT10YEcY-5a3hsuC-0Im8we1asrd0w0RhbFuTC2BwXobh4eqGTx7Ct91uTjsabc3fpvsfKQ3XZZCfZBaA/s1600/photo+1%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIlLb2odGFTQsYdAHOxZrLyEaY6BdJTW8i3kPZtEbMIXLos8c2hjM-XqMccuT10YEcY-5a3hsuC-0Im8we1asrd0w0RhbFuTC2BwXobh4eqGTx7Ct91uTjsabc3fpvsfKQ3XZZCfZBaA/s1600/photo+1%25283%2529.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Elite Dart in bolt</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPb6ykuxfCkMvTSMVLPieiYhv2N78_l8dDS8_vFYAIiO2TJbo2GM9LSZuYLLvngFSu4q9cCT_VLx0bo7jN-iN78YNFyF_zfk4x70q8n2rD1a1hDCZUNH4ubQkjn2jcfrH08jhtHgjDg8/s1600/photo+2%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPb6ykuxfCkMvTSMVLPieiYhv2N78_l8dDS8_vFYAIiO2TJbo2GM9LSZuYLLvngFSu4q9cCT_VLx0bo7jN-iN78YNFyF_zfk4x70q8n2rD1a1hDCZUNH4ubQkjn2jcfrH08jhtHgjDg8/s1600/photo+2%25283%2529.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Extreme Dart, extremely in bolt </div>
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Yes, the dart is shorter, but we can see that the Extreme dart actually sits further in the bolt, offsetting its shorter length, and effectively grabbing about the same amount of the smaller ID of the bolt. So I'm pretty sure it's creating the same seal.<br />
<br />
Now, the cons. This dart does not work in a stock Stryfe, or I would say any flywheel blaster. Since it's shorter, it's not able to get pulled into the flywheels. Not without a modified pusher rod. It's very easy to lengthen the pusher rod, and you only need about 25 mils more. Once you do that, you're golden. But I'm not sure how it would affect stock dart operation.<br />
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Verdict? It's a viable dart for any clip based spring powered blaster and front loading blasters, with foam and tip quality on par with nerf.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTq6FZ4yxQ3Bv4LSDPFr4P8wfsEqaN5c18c5qOxydjPGl-WgbopipydtBW_y-LL0FofttuCtzyp5VBpDi2A2vXQpl1ImO77Z-7zH9KNmW-hZueVbCo1gGBInDogv27x_D02Rp6iGOmWbQ/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTq6FZ4yxQ3Bv4LSDPFr4P8wfsEqaN5c18c5qOxydjPGl-WgbopipydtBW_y-LL0FofttuCtzyp5VBpDi2A2vXQpl1ImO77Z-7zH9KNmW-hZueVbCo1gGBInDogv27x_D02Rp6iGOmWbQ/s1600/photo.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I guess there's a reason for Air Zone labeling it "compatiple" with other brands. It's not quite a direct placement for Elite darts. <br />
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azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-88917001553073804942014-01-30T03:32:00.003-08:002014-02-05T03:00:06.039-08:00A Quick Overview of the Orange Mod Works Unleashed Solid Stage 3 Kit For RetaliatorWell, this arrived the other day.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRA2Yh93GdlEL9LzPqoFCybAJ0s29cVcbNmOEsdZSz89rt0jJRZDej_h-8x8mV2L5VnC_-kHIGZdMi9v1Jw1bdR0OO2sZl7tByR0LbxmH1VYm_m8aNKHnaPBeG4lbmP0h5cQKSn0ZCGxw/s1600/OMWstage3retaliator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRA2Yh93GdlEL9LzPqoFCybAJ0s29cVcbNmOEsdZSz89rt0jJRZDej_h-8x8mV2L5VnC_-kHIGZdMi9v1Jw1bdR0OO2sZl7tByR0LbxmH1VYm_m8aNKHnaPBeG4lbmP0h5cQKSn0ZCGxw/s1600/OMWstage3retaliator.jpg" height="400" width="299" /></a></div>
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I finally had an excuse to crack open a Retaliator and also install their Stage 2 kit. Previously, I was feeling way too lazy to do it if I didn't have the sealed breech system.<br />
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Read more about after the jump.<br />
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I won't go over everything in the kit in great detail. You can check their website if you want to see what's in it. It's very easy to see what's going on.</div>
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The bolt sled is very similar to the old one, with some slight design changes. Although OMW states in their video that you can use the stock locks, I had some issues. The bolt sled lock was not a direct fit, as the black sled is slightly smaller, as you can see in the following picture.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKULdR82VdtFrL4rrwgjr_6DyRokHxXc72w_V1vDgTS9VgUfqb3AGCQzrTfzsRlPh_SMS9glGBVNbdGF76aIpJ8sA36wgxM3BVJLwFAPFYbmKTJDw9rkgdmqbPiOiomyORwpaYgDWPCYM/s1600/photo+1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKULdR82VdtFrL4rrwgjr_6DyRokHxXc72w_V1vDgTS9VgUfqb3AGCQzrTfzsRlPh_SMS9glGBVNbdGF76aIpJ8sA36wgxM3BVJLwFAPFYbmKTJDw9rkgdmqbPiOiomyORwpaYgDWPCYM/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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The orange bit is pretty mush flesh with the bolt sled wall. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr2NdJi9gISSsTwQrJJtJrNdTkmB5pm9ZL2Nu8cC1LgzSDuFNHXblPbls2MjREcdYbbz3PdDWMWZKxfIrT5twg0Oheb6COk9hrB4XAV1bC0ne41X_QDwpsZ1y3_N9Ieq-ZNKS0bhVEMrU/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr2NdJi9gISSsTwQrJJtJrNdTkmB5pm9ZL2Nu8cC1LgzSDuFNHXblPbls2MjREcdYbbz3PdDWMWZKxfIrT5twg0Oheb6COk9hrB4XAV1bC0ne41X_QDwpsZ1y3_N9Ieq-ZNKS0bhVEMrU/s1600/photo+3.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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This is the part that cannot close properly due to the design change. You can trim the lock itself to get it to fit.<br />
However, with both the trigger lock and this bolt sled lock, I found the priming action to be quite difficult. I ended up taking them out for smoother operation. Not ideal, since I would rather make it harder to double load. I also found the catch spring that they included to be inadequate.<br />
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Here's the dart chamber assembly. You can see a bit of the new folding arms for pushing in the dart, and how the bolt's tip locks into the assembly. It's designed fairly well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JLj0c1M9a4XTe5hHChd35yCWAcqLVuX5tp0ZZSa1C4pecqXgGFMzeqgRx_BPR937DFEPgzqslW6Vd_6mUW4cS9xVvfm2mncH8vH_psXoE5A6QvEan7k9wZBRP7EGF2io9z6iU3sa33c/s1600/photo+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JLj0c1M9a4XTe5hHChd35yCWAcqLVuX5tp0ZZSa1C4pecqXgGFMzeqgRx_BPR937DFEPgzqslW6Vd_6mUW4cS9xVvfm2mncH8vH_psXoE5A6QvEan7k9wZBRP7EGF2io9z6iU3sa33c/s1600/photo+5.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I then proceeded to take some shots using the chrony we built.<br />
The results...were interesting. Sometimes, it delivered as promised. Other times, it fell short. It seemed inconsistent to me, and these first few numbers were taken at first using good ZS darts. They were not new, but the foam was in good shape and felt nice. The shots after that were from a new pack of Elites.<br />
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89.67 fps<br />
84.06 fps<br />
120.89 fps<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9d8mbmAhlXlHfGArC1zs5oPlwtvQ5H3BTpmyvZaj3zoMGZRFFKvtHjJM0j9STmRjDkQDOdq2RHbLmaHDiV6JiWU1psm9pJLJgymMPKSax4_KuqbR6vV8NquPuXa1WQyfHslv8TyigJMo/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9d8mbmAhlXlHfGArC1zs5oPlwtvQ5H3BTpmyvZaj3zoMGZRFFKvtHjJM0j9STmRjDkQDOdq2RHbLmaHDiV6JiWU1psm9pJLJgymMPKSax4_KuqbR6vV8NquPuXa1WQyfHslv8TyigJMo/s1600/photo+3.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wow, as promised, 120 fps. I don't believe their 95 ft PTG number, but 120 fps is possible. However, infamous and I partially brass our Retaliators and get about 110-120 fps average. But also, this system seems to have large variation. The average fps from this batch of ZS darts was <span class="return_answer">98.206.</span><br />
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<span class="return_answer">I wanted to see if it was truly that inconsistent, so I used a few brand new darts to minimize possible problems.</span><br />
<span class="return_answer"><br /></span>
<span class="return_answer">108.98 fps<br />61.12 fps<br />100.56 fps<br />102.8 fps<br />121.36 fps</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWgPBEyWZpvTDMYGspOTW_1khypyqW6vVHdHGjt35kOpMdR36XedpV1fS3CEPGJdgYXDZTTSPJWmBuJjoKUf9-kQ7_U4Q7XR26uhkpIlxFg7SvjGgYHqp4qKhCnTtuZLg_C8_qKbbdZEQ/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWgPBEyWZpvTDMYGspOTW_1khypyqW6vVHdHGjt35kOpMdR36XedpV1fS3CEPGJdgYXDZTTSPJWmBuJjoKUf9-kQ7_U4Q7XR26uhkpIlxFg7SvjGgYHqp4qKhCnTtuZLg_C8_qKbbdZEQ/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<span class="return_answer">Wow! 61.12 What happened there? In some shots that I did not chrono, when I was just testing firing, I remembered getting a lot of weird shots, where it just practically ploop out the barrel. This average was </span><span class="return_answer">98.96 fps. </span><br />
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<span class="return_answer">I feel like the system works well when it works well. It IS possible to hit 120 fps with their system as promised. The air seal is quite nice. When I blocked the entrance to the barrel with a finger, the dart did not move forward much when fired. So that was cool. But I feel like it's very easy to cause the system to load the dart incorrectly or something. That's how I'm explaining some of the abnormalities seen here. It has a wide amount of variation in terms of performance. </span>azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-2440694121879573682013-12-20T10:57:00.001-08:002014-02-05T03:00:34.349-08:00Budget Picatinny Tactical Light SystemSo I been looking for a cheap, yet solid tactical light system for a while now. I am happy to report that I finally found one :)<br />
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More After the Jump!<br />
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The system is composed of three parts:<br />
<ol>
<li>Ultrafire Wf-502b Flashlight Torch: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006X7LV0W/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1">amazon</a></li>
<li>2x Ultrafire 18650 Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries + Charger (or any other 18650 Li-ion battery): <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ultrafire-3000mah-Rechargeable-Battery-Transport/dp/B00ABXYKV6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1387526065&sr=8-4&keywords=18650">Amazon</a></li>
<li>1" Diameter Picatinny Tactical Light Mount: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZYRV2E/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">amazon</a></li>
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The entire build will cost you $24.25 without tax and shipping. If you have Amazon Prime, you can get all three items with free 2 day shipping. A quick tip is to select legitimate sources when purchasing from amazon. For example, buy the Picatinny mount directly from Amazon, as people have reported less quality goods of the same item from other sources.<br />
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Here are the pros and cons of this system from my experience.<br />
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Pros:<br />
<ul>
<li>Relatively cheap</li>
<li>Very solid, full metal build</li>
<li>Multiple modes </li>
<li>High 1000 rated lumens output</li>
</ul>
Cons:<br />
<ul>
<li>Requires a Picatinny to Nerf adapter to work on Nerf rails: <a href="http://www.slydev.com.au/Store/Products.php?Category=Picatinny">SlyDev</a> </li>
<li>A bit bulky (this may be a plus on large, rifle type blasters)</li>
<li>~200-300 true lumens output</li>
<li>Overheats at maximum setting after 20 minutes</li>
</ul>
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When mounted on Picatinny rails directly, as demonstrated in the above picture with my JT Splatmaster z100 pistol, the system is very rigid. It does not move or wobble at all; it feels like it can break through drywall or chip board wood, but don't quote me on this (FYI, apparently they have things that mounts on Picatinny rails that are designed to breakdown doors and stuff, for real guns of course).<br />
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The light itself is one of those Chinese knockoff torches, but works almost wonderfully. It is rated at a 1000 lumens output, but even with a proper battery, it will only produce an approximately 200-300 lumens output (based on personal comparison of known brightness flashlights, supported by an Amazon review). In addition, it has five modes: high, medium, low, strobe, and S.O.S.. A huge flaw to this light is that it will overheat after 20 minutes of continuous use on the high setting. However, this light will work without a problem on medium and strobe (which is pulsing light at maximum brightness) settings, which eliminates the prior issue as a huge problem. I think a good operating procedure is to use the medium setting for normal use, and then switch to high during an intensive "air" exchange or when fending off a zombie wave. 20 minutes should be long enough for you to not be overly concerned about having to check the light for heat issues during the action.<br />
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As a note, the side mount properties of the system makes pushing the light button extremely convenient on the z100 pistol.<br />
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In addition, the light can mount to the left or right. Furthermore, the Picatinny light mount can mount any flashlight that has an appropriate 1" diameter section on the light's body.<br />
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Here is a picture of the light in somewhat action:<br />
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Despite its drawbacks (mainly of which are the torch's), this system is well worth the cost if you are looking for a budget, but functional tactical light. Comparing to a high quality tactical light system, such as the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Surefire-Ultra-Ouput-Weaponlight-Black/dp/B00999CBJ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1387558147&sr=8-2&keywords=surefire+tactical">Surefire weapon light</a>, Nerfers will get 90% of what they <u>want</u> out of such system from this much cheaper alternative. This system is also far better than any airsoft tactical light that you can find for even near its price. Airsoft lights that cost twice as much is less rigid as well as much dimmer than this system.<br />
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I hope this finding fits your needs and is a solution to your lighting problems. Happy Nerfing!xinfamousx101http://www.blogger.com/profile/18229735381181616234noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-31954624516013089062013-12-19T10:08:00.003-08:002013-12-19T22:21:17.071-08:00Zombie Strike Crossfire Bow Internals!<div style="text-align: center;">
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It's been a while since we had some new content. I ordered some stuff on Amazon, and this came in the other day!</div>
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<img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-5t7LP2MdjK7Zk_PZI9wyMrl-qhsInWfqCB5ufHAgS38f-OO6RUsjC8XUH7A5tjSc3IrE4h5bPFcwQ8MP60EjdJAcNYzlr1i7RK-7m80GX9HfkAuVfz-S-VInO2pVdo1DI84q4NO9H8/s400/crossfire1.jpg" width="400" /></div>
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More after the jump.<br />
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I'm just going to jump right into it. We know what to expect based the on the blaster's operation: something very similar to a Rough Cut. But now it's a crossbow! So now every Walking Dead fan can get their Daryl Dixon on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMb2vl1GCnTERs4yek6UNo7HNraurfQvE1-1kVOsOqI5E3Q3vwm-y-1Nbbw-qJpHVcpqv9Y1bAR-UYCyHwK9N7g9wOP41F9NZ0A3_-XbAb9l6BQFD_3G3BM3wRTOP1mdP7O0n62DW5U3s/s1600/crossfire2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMb2vl1GCnTERs4yek6UNo7HNraurfQvE1-1kVOsOqI5E3Q3vwm-y-1Nbbw-qJpHVcpqv9Y1bAR-UYCyHwK9N7g9wOP41F9NZ0A3_-XbAb9l6BQFD_3G3BM3wRTOP1mdP7O0n62DW5U3s/s400/crossfire2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here are some more views of the outside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNXOhHpGfgXfp0x1W37LOCj4i-NIprGkiwg-NUNhdodT97pwBoJ4QuDUC0l1vV-3l79qIps0_FaOqulIDjUmmIFl_cWucc3dJGRK67zs_MiLzz5AfHiiODekw6z8Nv6tb4FlmqyFbL38/s1600/crossfire3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNXOhHpGfgXfp0x1W37LOCj4i-NIprGkiwg-NUNhdodT97pwBoJ4QuDUC0l1vV-3l79qIps0_FaOqulIDjUmmIFl_cWucc3dJGRK67zs_MiLzz5AfHiiODekw6z8Nv6tb4FlmqyFbL38/s400/crossfire3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Dat drawstring action.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEh6xiwzI7r-Jjjj2_IPGcgbElz5aPU8F5PY6kDH0fEFtphJPuWRChyphenhyphen-a7uzEKWfVBOLcSPeu5rFVu8wBMVyX1CP2HAIoHq7iFwIl__-ANmB8wZci8DXRJ503yCvL3bIlfCVlg3mlx96U/s1600/crossfire4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEh6xiwzI7r-Jjjj2_IPGcgbElz5aPU8F5PY6kDH0fEFtphJPuWRChyphenhyphen-a7uzEKWfVBOLcSPeu5rFVu8wBMVyX1CP2HAIoHq7iFwIl__-ANmB8wZci8DXRJ503yCvL3bIlfCVlg3mlx96U/s400/crossfire4.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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First, an appearance from my new favorite tool. Electric precision screwdriver! Makes everything go so much faster.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg-pzMUkKkJfO9vS-nPq3Pfa-gESziQ9G2SHDyiSwQM9QBNHxDe-XG9smd1RBtrv5qjVBp3_wZfbHB4l3Ioyy0_2RJ2GQiDmcXgXgXbW1ccOiF40SDEQNLIFgQV2LczNfPdVd3dnE-jfU/s1600/crossfire5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg-pzMUkKkJfO9vS-nPq3Pfa-gESziQ9G2SHDyiSwQM9QBNHxDe-XG9smd1RBtrv5qjVBp3_wZfbHB4l3Ioyy0_2RJ2GQiDmcXgXgXbW1ccOiF40SDEQNLIFgQV2LczNfPdVd3dnE-jfU/s400/crossfire5.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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Bow arms removed. Not hard to pop off, if you already put them on before opening it. Just muscle it out at an angle slowly. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9dC8B2XZIb6rKmQBeIzuyVEfHwZutaOhkviKq78fVVZnDFustZbuFT35a9tMD8dvMUoIx5rZoKrTP2EoX6V7_R6XHHEn3kAX4_m5axX9FjxC27ho_giXsh0laJE2i-7sT2WYMQtLrmc/s1600/crossfire6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9dC8B2XZIb6rKmQBeIzuyVEfHwZutaOhkviKq78fVVZnDFustZbuFT35a9tMD8dvMUoIx5rZoKrTP2EoX6V7_R6XHHEn3kAX4_m5axX9FjxC27ho_giXsh0laJE2i-7sT2WYMQtLrmc/s400/crossfire6.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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As we can see, it looks like half of a Rough Cut's barrel and plunger assembly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxRxbg5f5xYyr3FaWTIbhrgDn1CZ4cekg15MVx_GBvWTPdJC3y0JnN8vVTVQMVxoKl6VTzYwUgvsH-A0hCXu_EQXDUlA94eIAOM5agqDlBd59YiPwtu3Xf-6AVGx9KgZj2sgoRddzflHw/s1600/crossfire7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxRxbg5f5xYyr3FaWTIbhrgDn1CZ4cekg15MVx_GBvWTPdJC3y0JnN8vVTVQMVxoKl6VTzYwUgvsH-A0hCXu_EQXDUlA94eIAOM5agqDlBd59YiPwtu3Xf-6AVGx9KgZj2sgoRddzflHw/s400/crossfire7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The trigger and catch assembly is much simpler than the Rough Cut, of course, since it doesn't have the stepped trigger feature.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJAY9-92_BHyhsAWrhfjp3ndpDa9_j2lqYSVvL9Isch-EGg8qIg541ftPXSYCrddZfnihdB96pMtJUyB7Scas2k52E0oes15xHdu5-Gzy_y4UlM276PTeztvYoSF-xINDFX58dXlcMNng/s1600/crossfire7a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJAY9-92_BHyhsAWrhfjp3ndpDa9_j2lqYSVvL9Isch-EGg8qIg541ftPXSYCrddZfnihdB96pMtJUyB7Scas2k52E0oes15xHdu5-Gzy_y4UlM276PTeztvYoSF-xINDFX58dXlcMNng/s400/crossfire7a.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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Just a closer view of the plunger.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvWziuHyXk2F77pdJH2f6P1nL53K_jI0t7UYGzWqNcUtrgIMRnJFn5vbyLi8xcTd86E2i1idADQ7SotvCpmRMPAM69EkCt5wKlG8PtkrM6USDXyQ1RBzMzE3mwTeNTdD92y3tuKYK_gR0/s1600/crossfire8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvWziuHyXk2F77pdJH2f6P1nL53K_jI0t7UYGzWqNcUtrgIMRnJFn5vbyLi8xcTd86E2i1idADQ7SotvCpmRMPAM69EkCt5wKlG8PtkrM6USDXyQ1RBzMzE3mwTeNTdD92y3tuKYK_gR0/s400/crossfire8.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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An interesting this to note is that there is no geared setup here. The bow arms are fairly strong, and thus I think the drawstring can be replaced with something stronger to improve performance. Should be just like the old school practice of rubber banding. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4Qw7SzB06J-FOaOi33aDDX2v9mca8tgVNEVj8Q2msFHvRSEMgNWB1wHdS-JMWmHUDkoYooMa3idgKlw6wxzbLKCpYJ8cevoxhz705ephw2Y5-vjlZqlGfQkKfULVGAUqLadNnDHbZ0Q/s1600/crossfire9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4Qw7SzB06J-FOaOi33aDDX2v9mca8tgVNEVj8Q2msFHvRSEMgNWB1wHdS-JMWmHUDkoYooMa3idgKlw6wxzbLKCpYJ8cevoxhz705ephw2Y5-vjlZqlGfQkKfULVGAUqLadNnDHbZ0Q/s400/crossfire9.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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The plunger and spring. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCrmaXCZ7WAWNgaY9uYuDAfncQ_QKFQ_h8x_r3uVljrfMPvNI91dtsEuzeVDPvlokBlgFhlYlo6nr1aUBeibt9VNDFTWHpBvso3TxAiUqzMZeYBK_hM1rBslpQhrmBYwziLfsAYsyMLo/s1600/crossfire10a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCrmaXCZ7WAWNgaY9uYuDAfncQ_QKFQ_h8x_r3uVljrfMPvNI91dtsEuzeVDPvlokBlgFhlYlo6nr1aUBeibt9VNDFTWHpBvso3TxAiUqzMZeYBK_hM1rBslpQhrmBYwziLfsAYsyMLo/s400/crossfire10a.jpg" width="300" /> </a></div>
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Smart AR assembly. </div>
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My overall impression is that it's a fun blaster. Just visually, it seems to be a bit weaker than the Rough Cut, not sure why. Perhaps the spring is slightly weaker, I don't remember what the Rough Cut's feels like. Haven't had a chance to use the Chrony on it just yet, that should tell us what we need to know.</div>
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Any questions?<br />
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azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-45036517168076007442013-11-11T20:53:00.001-08:002013-12-19T22:21:07.304-08:00JT SplatMaster z300 Sniper Review and MinimizationAfter seeing <a href="http://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2013/10/jt-splatmaster-z100-review-chrono-and.html">Torukmakto4's awesome results with and high recommendation of the z100</a>, I ordered one myself along with a z300. In terms of the z300, $50 seemed like a big risk for a blind shot, but I figured if it shoots 0.5 caliber paint balls, it has to shoot Nerf darts. And if anything, I can just return it. Here is the official link to the product:<br />
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<a href="https://jtsplatmaster.com/jt-splatmaster-z300-sniper">https://jtsplatmaster.com/jt-splatmaster-z300-sniper</a><br />
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I ordered mine online through Walmart because it was the cheapest deal I could find with almost free shipping (you have to spend $0.05 more):<br />
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<a href="http://www.walmart.com/ip/JT-SplatMaster-z300-Sniper/27448965">http://www.walmart.com/ip/JT-SplatMaster-z300-Sniper/27448965</a><br />
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When I unboxed the blaster, my first impression was: "Wow, this is one sweet blaster!" Then I tried to stuff in a dart, and surely my heart sunk faster than the original momentary rise in excitement. The problem is, there is a long, larger barrel nesting or telescoping the smaller, main firing barrel. I didn't know this at the time nor did I have a good push rod with me. I used the cleaning stick that came with the blaster and blindly attempted to jam the dart into the appropriate barrel. Without much feedback, I was probably barely getting the dart into the firing barrel, which resulted the poor initial performance I saw.<br />
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Being busy with many things, I set aside the blaster, only to return to it one afternoon when I spontaneously decided to disassemble it while relaxing and watching some good old Netflix :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkbI2j6HrIqBDN4-dU0ANrJC_RL0BhAfVpItzXGUNnuuG4rsM0i13sdRKe6tzgIByjvQcv1LtDbVlGf6JzgS3jBPRKOrpFRfH7g-5xVvqkUcc27o8xX6TrxyKw_fwGSIoZQ-MPyt1NXLw/s1600/IMG_0081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkbI2j6HrIqBDN4-dU0ANrJC_RL0BhAfVpItzXGUNnuuG4rsM0i13sdRKe6tzgIByjvQcv1LtDbVlGf6JzgS3jBPRKOrpFRfH7g-5xVvqkUcc27o8xX6TrxyKw_fwGSIoZQ-MPyt1NXLw/s400/IMG_0081.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbg0guRUkjBopURyFawjdxht1ciqD8C-uRb_tzwB0kMwEY2SvjypffTJr5bFFQnwVuSp2sjDOkW-XxXb3wgkYD6KF-paKLMEYwalKQm_Bnn1r3bPc9QkmKMXKMv7vUCgr5zQzFHYPtJF_T/s1600/IMG_0077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbg0guRUkjBopURyFawjdxht1ciqD8C-uRb_tzwB0kMwEY2SvjypffTJr5bFFQnwVuSp2sjDOkW-XxXb3wgkYD6KF-paKLMEYwalKQm_Bnn1r3bPc9QkmKMXKMv7vUCgr5zQzFHYPtJF_T/s400/IMG_0077.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBDTv1gVLTKUkhSGCYXTDSWki521Gq88M3C9VV97Ptby0coqSzcauAMBIpLml9AaL0MYo_3JTsprwSYZk8ERW9afJ5er67BOAGq0ktrdbIBuESyQ9rX_0xVTSUN-KVYXLPjSUd0kgKqak2/s1600/IMG_0079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBDTv1gVLTKUkhSGCYXTDSWki521Gq88M3C9VV97Ptby0coqSzcauAMBIpLml9AaL0MYo_3JTsprwSYZk8ERW9afJ5er67BOAGq0ktrdbIBuESyQ9rX_0xVTSUN-KVYXLPjSUd0kgKqak2/s400/IMG_0079.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The blaster disassembled beautifully. There were no trick. Just take off the stock, unscrew everything, and it all comes apart. One thing to note is the huge spring! The overlapping barrel that I mentioned earlier is actually apart of the entire front assembly, which does not split apart after removing the screws because of the one solid piece orange tip cap. You can split this piece into two halves just like the process that is done with BuzzBee/AirTech blaster to completely split open the front assembly. However, I was able to easily slightly split open the front assembly on the side opposite to that of the orange tip to access/remove/reassemble anything of interest. One thing to note is that the screws in the blaster are not consistent in length (and may even be different in size and/or thread), so it is crucial that you make a screw map and not accidentally disrupt it. The screw map I laid out is shown in the second picture of the above photo series. The third picture shows the front assembly along with its screw map as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9aElTEmgA1dsvxTh6Ec5u1C7XjFjj5ylg0uWPgYzXhYewF1J2lGLm4JulEmvxJDRr42U7LxE3e6Jyr5UZqu0uKToOZoD-Tw2i8QQHDvopGaSOsdGiuRuTDs9zfCv63I7DYluTSOE6YGB/s1600/IMG_0092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9aElTEmgA1dsvxTh6Ec5u1C7XjFjj5ylg0uWPgYzXhYewF1J2lGLm4JulEmvxJDRr42U7LxE3e6Jyr5UZqu0uKToOZoD-Tw2i8QQHDvopGaSOsdGiuRuTDs9zfCv63I7DYluTSOE6YGB/s400/IMG_0092.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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At the first glance of the internals, it seems clean, simple and cut to the chase; all traits leading to a good, solid design. After I removed the spring and all of the inner components were freely able to move about, I instantly saw how the blaster operated.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOsgawclY_7C096BMcVJR0puIkUL9OE4bHmNcKljGLtjhet414dtV_egARfzZJ3XDHJ8ku65ZUTvNz2eSbZIESgLR-r05FNZGb1eos5mWQB9G2vFy8wUFxNpytNdRQ2w1zdQPMqFaF0YBy/s1600/IMG_0087_edit_poi.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOsgawclY_7C096BMcVJR0puIkUL9OE4bHmNcKljGLtjhet414dtV_egARfzZJ3XDHJ8ku65ZUTvNz2eSbZIESgLR-r05FNZGb1eos5mWQB9G2vFy8wUFxNpytNdRQ2w1zdQPMqFaF0YBy/s400/IMG_0087_edit_poi.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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First, the side lever connects and pulls the entire plunger back by hooking onto a hole attached to the plunger circled in yellow above. Once the plunger is completely pulled back, the catch (red circle) catches the plunger rod on the plunger rod lip (orange circle). Once the outer plunger is returned to its forward position, the prime lock (green circle) prevents the user from cocking the blaster when it is already cocked. This works by having the plunger rod lip push the lock up when the plunger rod is also in the forward position, unlocking the entire plunger system for priming.<br />
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Based on Torukmakto4's pictures of the z100, it seems like the z100's seal for the ammo loading break is made with a rubber to foam interface. Since both of these materials are elastic, this creates a very effective, ideal seal. The seal on the z300 is not as good as that of the z100. Its interface is made between rubber and hard plastic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMxxReESyNlLZnjvFeI3F_6zw_S5rw63NhRg3JOSMuEcKCb2EsQBMLp6w_Pf-ztlBbaNrrhyphenhyphenOMvYkPnH5DxEbvFQPmKsOu_ImkdDcXlQRzqGAKgpVGCf2SmZumm_Q0f6cpLfdJHC8s0oyv/s1600/IMG_0091_edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMxxReESyNlLZnjvFeI3F_6zw_S5rw63NhRg3JOSMuEcKCb2EsQBMLp6w_Pf-ztlBbaNrrhyphenhyphenOMvYkPnH5DxEbvFQPmKsOu_ImkdDcXlQRzqGAKgpVGCf2SmZumm_Q0f6cpLfdJHC8s0oyv/s400/IMG_0091_edit.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The above shows the ammo loading and barrel part of the blaster. The z300 loads its paint ball ammo by a spring pushing the ammo into the firing chamber though a hole on top of the barrel. The green arrow above points to where the hole is and where the stored ammo comes from when loaded into the chamber. A smaller pipe that is apart of the outer plunger/plunger chamber then pushes the paintball into a rubber section (red arrow) in the barrel when the cocking lever is returned to its forward position. The rubber section clamps the paintball to stop it from falling out of the barrel. It also creates an air seal with the plunger through the plunger head (same component that pushes the paintball into the rubber section). The hole indicated by the orange arrow appears on both sides of the system to allow small push rods powered by springs to align the inserting plunger head. The yellow arrow points to a rubber nipple that also appears on both sides of the system to further center the plunger head.<br />
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While inspecting the blaster's functions, I realized that if the shell is cut at a certain place in a certain shape, the blaster can rear load Nerf darts (specifically, short stefans) without any additional modification! However, the rubber clamp/seal in the barrel assembly quickly shot this idea down. It was very hard to push darts into the barrel through this rubber section. Doing so would require jamming the darts very hard, which may result dart damage and/or deformation. The process also took a while to do, making it not viable in an intense, war situation.<br />
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As I was contemplating how to reassemble the blaster, I realized that the entire front section of the blaster is completely useless for my purposes (single loading darts with a push rod). So I decided to exclude this entire section when I reassembled the blaster. Afterwards, without the long outer barrel (part of the front assembly) that telescoped the firing barrel, front loading darts with a finger/push rod became a normal task again and the blaster is now a viable weapon in battle!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPqqySeuN_urWkeLwjchy-FGPqqqWeZI4iqxcQCG7WrtlOau7T4hWXHgG6Qx5oAzQV8zHkvu4Xx9pQhm8zHppKaa8RAxGN4PJB03aCRuF_48lmpGuYxmPaedBfuv6jIu97AtrfoCykczq/s1600/IMG_0097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPqqySeuN_urWkeLwjchy-FGPqqqWeZI4iqxcQCG7WrtlOau7T4hWXHgG6Qx5oAzQV8zHkvu4Xx9pQhm8zHppKaa8RAxGN4PJB03aCRuF_48lmpGuYxmPaedBfuv6jIu97AtrfoCykczq/s400/IMG_0097.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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One thing to mention is that with this minimized system, it becomes very difficult to aim this blaster. You would most definitely have to make your own aiming system. From the shell design, I think the perfect place to place such a system is above the top lever guard and to the left of the original iron sight aiming wall. These two surfaces align parallel with the barrel, giving you the perfect two axis lock necessary for an accurate targeting system.<br />
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Another thing to note is the stock of this blaster; it is superb.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT_2bCml1IXghid0aVriHSWNiu15NCtPtJQShvOqP0-zsk_cfqyv5v6jad4yTO6rGpVXusa7TbfAfXZWNEojvqRDHXn5uM_tHhFg3zOBSZ6ZsVq9taMCz0aqZaePRYaDbCMBQS_0E7J3SX/s1600/stock.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT_2bCml1IXghid0aVriHSWNiu15NCtPtJQShvOqP0-zsk_cfqyv5v6jad4yTO6rGpVXusa7TbfAfXZWNEojvqRDHXn5uM_tHhFg3zOBSZ6ZsVq9taMCz0aqZaePRYaDbCMBQS_0E7J3SX/s400/stock.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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It is rigid, with almost no movement when attached to the blaster. Unlike the Raider stock's variable length locking system, this stock's lock reassembles a military style lock with a simple rod that slides in a hole, locking both directions of movement instead of just one. Although it is very possible to 3D print an adapter so this stock can be used on any Nerf blaster with a stock attachment interface, I can't be bothered designing such adapter.<br />
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I didn't carefully record FPS measurements (partly because I didn't want to use up new darts), but from the numerous shots I fired, this blaster shoots around 150 FPS with new/tight fitting elite darts inserted fully into the barrel with a push rod. With fully inserted used/loose fitting elite darts, the blaster cranked out an approximate average FPS of 140.<br />
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Comparing this blaster to the z100 pistol, it is without a doubt more powerful. From a simply side by side shot comparison using nothing but your own senses, you will easily notice the difference. With our z300 chrony data and using <a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aq5iwVrHW-YPdFNDcUpMZlZJYmVjNVlQVnhVWk1kc2c&usp=sharing#gid=0">Torukmakto4's z100 chrony data</a> (which we roughly verified), the z300 is approximately 15% more powerful. This is consistent with JT SplatMaster's own advertised specs. Other things worthy of mentioning is that the z300's barrel is slightly smaller than the z100's, resulting a tighter dart fit. This is good for muzzle velocity, but in the heat of the battle, you might accidentally squish a dart when trying to load the blaster (on a side note, we recommend twisting the dart during insertion to avoid this). In addition, the z100 comes battle ready right out of the box, while the z300 requires some tinkering to make it viable. The advantage of the z300's lever cock system also seems pointless if you are single loading darts, as you have to reacquire your aim from the motion anyways. In general, despite both blasters being high quality and well engineered, the z100 is a more thought out blaster. And straight out of the box, besides the power difference, the z100 fits Nerf applications better in every other way.<br />
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So now, the big question: is it worth the $50 price tag? The simple answer is: no. As I have mentioned in the beginning, I took a risk when purchasing this blaster. I was hoping for a spring platform that I can modify to turn it into my long range weapon. Although this is not exactly what I was hoping for, it definitely was much more than what I expected. I am not too fond of the seal, and for my purposes, the plunger is a bit too small. If I tried, I could probably find a replacement spring that will boost the performance up by around 10%. But I highly doubt the blaster will reach my personal goal of a 200 FPS spring blaster without heavy modifications, which in my opinion, sort of defeats the point of buying a premade product intended for improvement. I mean what's the point of buying something if it takes you more time to make it into what you want than to start from scratch and simply make your own home made one? I will probably just add some sort of aiming system to the blaster and call it a day. Because of its performance advantage, it will replace the z100 in my load out. To the rest of the Nerf community, if you are too lazy to make a home made blaster (like I was) I recommend getting the z100 and the JT holster for it (FYI, the cleaning sticks that come with the z100 and z300 are good push rods). I already used the z100 in an indoor Nerf battle and it was crazy amounts of fun, especially since I was going against mostly stock blasters muhahahahha. If the z100 concept is exactly what you are looking for and you absolutely crave a bit of additional power, go for the z300 and you won't be disappointed.xinfamousx101http://www.blogger.com/profile/18229735381181616234noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-183667427614247992013-11-10T22:18:00.000-08:002013-12-19T22:21:40.207-08:00JT SplatMaster Z100 Pistol Holster ReviewShortly after my first successful and very fun Nerf battle with my z100, I decided to pick this up:<br />
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<a href="https://jtsplatmaster.com/jt-splatmaster-z100-pistol-holster">https://jtsplatmaster.com/jt-splatmaster-z100-pistol-holster</a><br />
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Not being available at my local Walmart stores, I ordered it from Amazon with free shipping:<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/JT-SplatMaster-Z100-Pistol-Holster/dp/B0094KSZ5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384147056&sr=8-1&keywords=z100+holster">http://www.amazon.com/JT-SplatMaster-Z100-Pistol-Holster/dp/B0094KSZ5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384147056&sr=8-1&keywords=z100+holster</a><br />
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It arrived in a week and upon opening it, the similar, reassuring feeling of JT's high quality materials was once again felt. Here are some additional pictures to supplement official JT ones:<br />
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More pics of pictures of infamous' crotch after the jump! - azrael<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1c42om5Ce05dFNAORo16CIjGguS0ePGLXVAW-O5ltvieULjE9qGY26SCI_LbhK7xaeWwCM6xL9j0oEz7wWsP0K6usN6sG1sdnrLyu3kYbahASzzWFF8ptKzi1PyjIeJO8GGkEqIQ-hvm/s1600/right.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1c42om5Ce05dFNAORo16CIjGguS0ePGLXVAW-O5ltvieULjE9qGY26SCI_LbhK7xaeWwCM6xL9j0oEz7wWsP0K6usN6sG1sdnrLyu3kYbahASzzWFF8ptKzi1PyjIeJO8GGkEqIQ-hvm/s400/right.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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There is a Velcro lockable loop that secures the blaster in the holster if desired. On the left side of the holster, there are two straps that can be secured with snaps, acting as a possible removable attachment system. The snap buttons are heavy duty, requiring a good amount of force to pop them open and close. Below these straps lies a closed loop, most likely meant for a more permanent mounting method such as securing the holster to your belt. The right side of the holster features two elastic straps meant for carrying the pistol's intended clips. It is too big for a single dart and too small for missile type ammo. It seems like it would house mega darts quite well, but the elastic is quite strong, so it might crush the darts. Perhaps it is possible to make mega dart shells by simply cutting some appropriate tubing material and using it to protect the darts from deforming under the elastic straps. Anyways, I am sure you can think of some creative way to utilize this feature (flashlight holder maybe?).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SnhR9xSWjkFloigSnXMh0o1ZCcSQ3y8oQEMYVtsxEU-8MVI4Z_mgH9zIrRbzEZI-TSTstcaX-0gmcyt2mUyN5dG3jbKxxUmy9zOG_M3qFx4hUn8uiiBo4U5SzRmigtITHoNrovODEiii/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SnhR9xSWjkFloigSnXMh0o1ZCcSQ3y8oQEMYVtsxEU-8MVI4Z_mgH9zIrRbzEZI-TSTstcaX-0gmcyt2mUyN5dG3jbKxxUmy9zOG_M3qFx4hUn8uiiBo4U5SzRmigtITHoNrovODEiii/s400/photo.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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There is a small design flaw to mention. The holster covers the entire handle of the blaster, which makes slotting the blaster in as well as pulling it out troublesome with an awkward, non-flowing motion. To holster the blaster, you have to push the blaster in as much as possible with your hand still on the blaster's grip, then let go of the grip with your blast not fully in the holster yet and push in the rest of the way with your fingers on the back of the pistol grip. To take the blaster out, you can only grab the end of the blaster's handle grip until enough of the blaster is out for you to wrap the rest of your hand on the grip. Overall, these two motions, especially putting the blaster in the holster, do not feel smooth and will take a while to get used to. Here is a picture of a real holster to further clarify the differences:</div>
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<a href="http://continentalholsters.com/ContinentalHolsters/PeaceMakerProtechLargePhoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://continentalholsters.com/ContinentalHolsters/PeaceMakerProtechLargePhoto.jpg" /></a></div>
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See how the holster covers the entire trigger, but leaves the handle completely open for your hand to couple for insertion and removal? I think JT designed their holster the way they did because of the blaster locking strap. But surely they can find some clever way of securing the blaster in the holster? I mean we commonly see amazingly simple, yet well thought out and functioning designs in their blasters.</div>
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As with many of the JT products we have seen, the holster's quality is superb.
Everything feels rigid, tight and durable. Despite the small design flaw, this accessory is a
bargain for $10. I would definitely buy this again. </div>
xinfamousx101http://www.blogger.com/profile/18229735381181616234noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-68203117575033009892013-11-10T21:15:00.000-08:002013-12-19T22:22:04.251-08:00Perfect (almost) Hammershot Spring Spacer<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">These came in a while ago and I incorporated one of them into my Hammershot, but haven't had the time to post about it. Well without further delay, here they are:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Nylon spacer for stock/upgrade Retaliator springs: <a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#94639a211/=pbqjq3">McMaster</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Nylon spacer for stock Maverick springs: <a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#94639a212/=pbqkb8" target="_blank">McMaster</a> </span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The McMaster spacer shown in Fig. E8.2 is
the longer, 1/2 in. length one. These lengthier ones will work perfectly
with stock Maverick springs (also shown in the same picture). Whether
this spacer will work with the upgrade Maverick springs is untested and
unknown. It may be possible to use these spacers with stock/upgrade
Retaliator springs. But because the spacer is so long, it becomes very
difficult to push the nested springs inside the inner shell spring
housing. I seem to recall catch issues with this setup as well, or maybe
it is because I thought the blaster will break with the setup that I
refrained from this build. The stock/upgrade Retaliator spacer I linked
above is 3/8 in. in length. I have not tested this spacer length myself
but I am confident that this spacer, along with using a stock Retaliator
spring as the outer nest spring will be the perfect build for most
people. More specifically, this setup should still be very prime-able
with one thumb/hand while maintaining a good balance of power,
reliability and durability. If you want to experiment various spacer
lengths with various springs, we recommend getting the longer spacers
(the ones linked for stock Maverick springs) and shaving them down to
the desired length for experimentation/modification.<br /><br />The pre-made
McMasters spacers are pretty much ready to install right out of the
box. Here is an example of a completely unmodified McMaster spacer in
the Hammershot:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"> </span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPhJDawnmgu3xmhjE29LcmWLblNFthbZWXjEaJIMw-45jQEK0K_cxAvQqPFeWlFoUsm30_3cIx8OkxFYr41mjUbLJrJdKwUHZSIJr9iR0iFoWs1ycPihd9o07BacQ_FNrligIHI5QgjSl/s1600/IMG_0007.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPhJDawnmgu3xmhjE29LcmWLblNFthbZWXjEaJIMw-45jQEK0K_cxAvQqPFeWlFoUsm30_3cIx8OkxFYr41mjUbLJrJdKwUHZSIJr9iR0iFoWs1ycPihd9o07BacQ_FNrligIHI5QgjSl/s400/IMG_0007.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fig. E8.2 - McMaster spacer in Hammershot</span></div>
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Here is a picture of the spacer by itself:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7o2R8T8yOOZFTpTF6PuCSi_c-K-vHGpvudfrtHfUtV-7Du5eDXYx3zAo9cdOCHj-G0dCozw7UEfstZnHTk1631w-J6-k5PjtaIT5_U8BXbAcj6NiI0vmBhSQgpsrgTMHEfJmbRCSSpYJ4/s1600/spacer.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7o2R8T8yOOZFTpTF6PuCSi_c-K-vHGpvudfrtHfUtV-7Du5eDXYx3zAo9cdOCHj-G0dCozw7UEfstZnHTk1631w-J6-k5PjtaIT5_U8BXbAcj6NiI0vmBhSQgpsrgTMHEfJmbRCSSpYJ4/s400/spacer.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fig. E8.3 - McMaster spacer</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br />The picture above shows the side of
the spacer where there is a small lip from the normal face of the side
to the inner cut-out cylinder. Although this is not specified in the
product's datasheet, it is an advantageous feature for us because it is
the perfect housing for the coned top of the stock spring. So place this
side of the spacer towards the spring(s).<br /><br />Although the spacer
will work out of the box, you might want to modify it slightly for
optimal performance in your Hammershot. The large outer diameter of the
stock spacer will grind along the inner shell's seat-post housings
during priming and releasing of the spring. Grind the spacer's sides to
prevent this from degrading performance. Refer to Fig. E8.1 to see
approximately how much to shave off.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html">The Works Guide: Zombie Strike Hammershot</a> has been appropriately updated.</span>xinfamousx101http://www.blogger.com/profile/18229735381181616234noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-13912822792583000822013-09-28T07:34:00.000-07:002013-12-19T22:22:19.690-08:00Work in Progress: Chrony alpha successfully tested! + interesting new vs old darts FPS comparisonOur homemade chrony has been confirmed working! Here are some pictures.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNn8NMvl19D-tZN5Xla4jiRuxwubvsXDGkzhg-3QdnpizCiF5wT7DUzBmRr2luYtlKaZHhrVZvM5yjQXxl2SoXpR1pNEsb4kEn1z-BCgEuQidiYZamrjOVL_Na3at6FxPxcF0yfN86D-iD/s1600/IMG_0680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNn8NMvl19D-tZN5Xla4jiRuxwubvsXDGkzhg-3QdnpizCiF5wT7DUzBmRr2luYtlKaZHhrVZvM5yjQXxl2SoXpR1pNEsb4kEn1z-BCgEuQidiYZamrjOVL_Na3at6FxPxcF0yfN86D-iD/s400/IMG_0680.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioCJ-zdnO0Q4kVGi4gDXtOPx2RgCc4AX0p9j-IAkKxcaU8tHQP8c2zfXcvjr5s0IGFTAhvvCDsS_PLFaqsUXBdwPc3qgYwsddzOlifMAcpoy3BluPEv-Mbt3sokM26VKa_H4PBlaqYRF6F/s1600/IMG_0679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioCJ-zdnO0Q4kVGi4gDXtOPx2RgCc4AX0p9j-IAkKxcaU8tHQP8c2zfXcvjr5s0IGFTAhvvCDsS_PLFaqsUXBdwPc3qgYwsddzOlifMAcpoy3BluPEv-Mbt3sokM26VKa_H4PBlaqYRF6F/s320/IMG_0679.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
As you can see, the chrony has been integrated into a retaliator stock barrel. The barrel has been extensive gutted to fit the 1 inch diameter PVC pipe. However, the barrel's attachment system is untouched and remains fully functional. This allows for easy FPS measuring of all Nerf blasters with barrel extension tips!<br />
<br />
More after the jump!<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Holes were drilled inside the PVC pipe to house the infrared emitters and detectors (shaped like standard 5 mm LEDs). There are two sets of IR emitters and detectors placed 6 inches apart to determine the dart speed by calculating the known distance traveled over the elapsed time. The micro-controller that is powering this system is the Arduino Pro Mini 328 5V.<br />
<br />
Here is a video of the chrony in action:<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="344" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/O6Lg8H-5nrg" width="459"></iframe>
</div>
<br />
This is the alpha version of the chronograph and the design is now confirmed working. The beta version of the chrony will be a professionally PCB (printed circuit board) version of the current system. In short, it will house the Arduino's atmega328 chip, FTDI chip (to interface with computer), LCD output display, input buttons and battery holders all on one convenient board!<br />
<br />
So what is the accuracy of this chronograph compared to a retail one? We cannot conclude this definitively because we do not own a retail chronograph. However, speculation can be applied with logic. Here is a detailed article on how most retail chronographs work (all you really need to read is the small how it works section and perhaps the accuracy section):<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pilkguns.com/Chrony.shtml">http://www.pilkguns.com/Chrony.shtml</a><br />
<br />
A retail chronograph uses a huge photo-detector to sense a wide area for motion. This is to allow a variety of guns/ammunition to be used for measurement. There are downsides to using a huge detector, such as reduced signal to noise ratio as well as slow signal propagation/detection. Our system uses small IR emitters and detectors housed inside a system designed for Nerf darts. The PVC pipe greatly reduces IR noise and the compact detectors allows for responsive signal detection and minimal signal travel. A retail chronograph typically operates at 0.25 us, while our chrony has a time resolution 1 us. Although this is 4 times greater, our system allows us to use digital signal read as opposed to analog, which is typically 200 times faster. In addition, our system lets the user read data directly from the chrony into their computer, making data analysis quick and simple. It is also possible to program the chrony to read data sequentially, allowing for easy FPS data streaming of automatic blasters such as Stryfes, Rayvens and Rapidstrikes to measure dart speed under maximum rate of fire.<br />
<br />
What about cost? The cheapest chronograph I could find was $75. This is why we initiated this project, as we already had the majority of components needed to make this chrony. Here is a complete list of parts used in this alpha version:<br />
<ul>
<li>1x Arduino Pro Mini 328 5V - $9.95 - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11113</li>
<li>1x 16x2 LCD screen - $14.95 - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/791</li>
<li>1x OPA2350 - $5.18 - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/OPA2350PA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtOXy69nW9rM6CBK5NDKGQzRVkB0SVMSsE%3d</li>
<li>2x IR emitter - ~$1.00 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>2x IR detector - ~$1.00 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>2x 47 ohm resistors - ~$0.20 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>2x 560k ohm resistors - ~$0.20 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>1x PVC pipe 1"x1' - ~$1.00 - available at any hardware store</li>
<li>1x small breadboard - ~$10.00 - available at any electronics store</li>
<li>1x solid core wire roll - ~$5.00 - available at any electronics store</li>
</ul>
So if you are starting from scratch, this would cost you around $50 without tax and shipping. This may seem quite steep, but it is still cheaper than buying a retail model. And personally, I always prefer DIY over pre-made products for the learning experience :)<br />
<br />
For the beta version, the cost of parts will be reduced. Here is a rough list of parts:<br />
<ul>
<li>1x atmega328 - $3.05 - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATMEGA328P-AU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtVoztFdqDXO3RbBx7FKCmV</li>
<li>1x 16x2 LCD screen - $14.95 - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/791</li>
<li>1x
OPA2350 - $5.18 -
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/OPA2350PA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtOXy69nW9rM6CBK5NDKGQzRVkB0SVMSsE%3d</li>
<li>2x IR emitter - ~$1.00 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>2x IR detector - ~$1.00 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>2x 47 ohm resistors - ~$0.20 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>2x 560k ohm resistors - ~$0.20 - (will post mouser link later)</li>
<li>1x PVC pipe 1"x1' - ~$1.00 - available at any hardware store</li>
<li>1x fabricated PCB - ~$15.00</li>
</ul>
The construction cost should be approximately $42. Most of the savings come from the integration of the Atmel chip instead of buying an entire Arduino and using a fabricated PCB instead of prototyping hardware. Furthermore, you can save an additional $15 if you do not mind using your computer to read data, so no LCD display will be necessary, bringing the cost down to $27.<br />
<br />
A complete guide of how to construct your own DIY chronograph as well as the more professional PCB version will be posted once this project is finalized.<br />
<br />
Here are two interesting sets of data I gathered while testing this alpha version:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJD-HwxoLnrTXwCVBU-HMaGZxvH4Z9MjzZNQLIHRJv3AdyAw599si4xd_jkET0u-nX-u4NUmR1Jh8cm2-hoewI0nbP87zWNxv2Tm3A9NmKbFUY416JrcxMJG-FF7Mg9xby6DNf8kiiLZQ4/s1600/retaliator_stock_stock_new_darts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJD-HwxoLnrTXwCVBU-HMaGZxvH4Z9MjzZNQLIHRJv3AdyAw599si4xd_jkET0u-nX-u4NUmR1Jh8cm2-hoewI0nbP87zWNxv2Tm3A9NmKbFUY416JrcxMJG-FF7Mg9xby6DNf8kiiLZQ4/s400/retaliator_stock_stock_new_darts.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Plot 1 - retaliator with stock spring, stock bolt using new elite darts' FPS data</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiy-YqQsLZxmK1jgZx21roz7-nOcWjwn4TV0bKEbR5zzgnfrlxkDzNleTUBqh2ouxZEV7S1tmV9_5zqwIWAWI-JDJeoOCKvAYUZbCBlxhEfAzetcyWmcnDYRGOUawNW2EocGQtwxLvtbTH/s1600/retaliator_stock_stock_old_darts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiy-YqQsLZxmK1jgZx21roz7-nOcWjwn4TV0bKEbR5zzgnfrlxkDzNleTUBqh2ouxZEV7S1tmV9_5zqwIWAWI-JDJeoOCKvAYUZbCBlxhEfAzetcyWmcnDYRGOUawNW2EocGQtwxLvtbTH/s400/retaliator_stock_stock_old_darts.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Plot 2 - retaliator with stock spring, stock bolt using new elite darts' FPS data</span> </div>
<br />
For the new darts data set, every measurement was taken with brand new, never used elite darts. For the old darts data set, all of the darts were used, with two of them in great/good condition, two of them in decent/fair condition, and two of them in poor condition. Before I conducted the used darts test, I thought there was a problem with our chrony as the stock retaliator FPS data did not match <a href="http://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/p/chrono-test.html">those of torukmaktor's</a>. Naazrael then suggested me to try some old darts and sure enough, this is the reason behind the data inconsistency. From the averages, the old darts were outputting only 78 % of the new darts' FPS. This is quite a significant degradation in performance! Hope this gets you to rethink about dart care!xinfamousx101http://www.blogger.com/profile/18229735381181616234noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-70206577913981910632013-09-24T23:42:00.002-07:002013-12-19T22:22:46.938-08:00The Works Guide: Zombie Strike Hammershot<div class="separator" style="clear: both; display: none; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyhDW3_xzCgznVi-R5tmbF4JqFkVqRCoMu5VZopyM3RZhvalaJp2TAhTR_u2P8gEwhO7qOs7V4TC8eJQwbGoMYBEO_J0LnkcJuM7DihbW6Ul_Y4AEnv64KK3ATnZXrXmfkYpBItsIetV4Z/s1600/cover.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyhDW3_xzCgznVi-R5tmbF4JqFkVqRCoMu5VZopyM3RZhvalaJp2TAhTR_u2P8gEwhO7qOs7V4TC8eJQwbGoMYBEO_J0LnkcJuM7DihbW6Ul_Y4AEnv64KK3ATnZXrXmfkYpBItsIetV4Z/s320/cover.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2831/9778704426_60f60755b6_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2831/9778704426_cf6ff84e51_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Table of Contents</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html#A">A. Introduction</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html#B">B. Compatibility</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html#C">C. Tools</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html#D">D. Parts</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html#E">E. Modifications</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html#F">F. Appendix</a></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="A"></a><b>A. Introduction </b></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Welcome to the Hammershot's edition of The Works Guide. This guide aims to cover modifications to the Nerf Zombie Strike Hammershot. While it is not a complete guide to this relatively new blaster, it will attempt to cover several facets of direct plunger modifications as they apply to the Hammershot.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Read on after the jump...</span></div>
<a name='more'></a><div dir="ltr">
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Many of the concepts used have been previously applied and developed by the Nerf modding community. We here at Better Nerf By Science do not attempt to present them as original techniques, but as a concise and focused guide specifically designed for this blaster. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="B"></a><b>B. Compatibility</b></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The modifications in this guide can be applied to other similar blasters, such as the Rebelle Sweet Revenge or the Dart Tag Snapfire 8. The Sweet Revenge seems to be a cosmetic makeover of the Hammershot, so modifications should apply directly. The Snapfire 8 uses a similar system, but the ideas are still valid and applicable.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null"><b><br /></b></a></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="C"></a><b>C. Tools</b></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Note:
Any tool that fits the listed description can be used. The first
specific item below the description is the tool used in making this
guide. Additional options may be shown.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">
</span>
<br />
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">
Required:</span></div>
<ul>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Philips
jeweler's screwdriver<br />-Stanley Jewelers Precision Screwdriver
Set: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326267&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+precision+screwdriver+set">amazon</a><br />-Wiha
26194 Screwdriver Set (high quality): <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26194-Screwdriver-Phillips-Precision/dp/B000NZ5QGK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326509&sr=8-5&keywords=wiha">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Utility
knife<br />-Husky Folding Utility Knife: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/HUSKY-FOLDING-UTILITY-KNIFE-BLADES/dp/B008DW2CO4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1375339317&sr=8-4&keywords=husky+knife">amazon</a><br />-Gerber
22-41830 EAB Pocket Knife: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-41830-Pocket-Knife-Exchange/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1375339674&sr=8-12&keywords=utility+knife">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Small
flat head screwdriver<br />- Stanley Jewelers Precision Screwdriver
Set: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326267&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+precision+screwdriver+set">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Hot
glue gun</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span class="st">Dikes, which are diagonal or side-cutting pliers</span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Hand
drill or drill press</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Silicone Lubricant</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Recommended:</span></div>
<ul>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">File
or sandpaper </span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Dremel</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Hot air gun </span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="D"></a><b>D. Parts</b><b> </b></span><br />
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Note:
Any part that fits the listed description can be used. The first
specific item below the description is the part used in making this
guide. Additional options may be shown.</span></div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Spacer for increased spring compression, use one of the following (refer to section E.8 for McMaster differentiation):</span></li>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">3/4 PVC pipe that has been heated and flattened out, using hot air gun. Guide <a href="http://forums.humansvszombies.org/index.php?topic=5003.0" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Nylon spacer for stock/upgrade Retaliator springs: <a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#94639a211/=pbqjq3">McMaster</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Nylon spacer for stock Maverick springs: <a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#94639a212/=pbqkb8" target="_blank">McMaster</a> </span></li>
</ul>
</ul>
</div>
<ul>
</ul>
<div dir="ltr">
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Correct diameter spring for increased power, use one of the following (listed in terms of strength):</span></li>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">8kg SG Nerf Retaliator spring (<a href="http://modworks.blogspot.com/2012/07/nerf-n-strike-elite-retaliator-mod-guide.html">SG Nerf ModWorks</a>)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">5kg OMW Retaliator spring (<a href="http://www.orangemodworks.com/product_p/spg-u4.htm">OMW</a>)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">2.5 kg stock Retaliator spring</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">stock Maverick spring </span></li>
</ul>
</ul>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="E"></a><b>E. Modification</b></span></div>
<ol start="1">
<li>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">
Make sure the blaster is not primed before you open the blaster. There are 12 screws, as indicated in the picture below by the red circles. They are all of uniform length and threading, which makes reassembly much easier. The tactical rail spring seems to be a bit weaker in this blaster, as it does not have the tendency to pop out. Even as such, it is recommended to either place a dab of hot glue to hold it in place, or keep it somewhere safe during modification.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5326/9778694205_d4ffbcde3d_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5326/9778694205_484652b49d_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E1.1 - Hammershot Screw Positions</span></div>
</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="2">
<li>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The three screws indicated in the following picture do not need to be removed for basic disassembly. At this point, take out the tactical rail lock indicated with the yellow circle, to ensure you do not lose it. You may remove the screws shown by the red circles if you want to remove the air restrictor from the rear of the
plunger tube face. but take careful note of how to reassemble it. If
you do do this, you also have an opportunity to tighten the air seal of the plunger by wrapping two wraps of teflon tape under the o-ring. It is not necessary, but is an optional step.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/9778523272_350ca4602d_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/9778523272_b8643ee327_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E2.1 - Internal plunger assembly and rail lock position</span>
</div>
</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="3">
<li>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">After removing the plunger assembly from the shell, you can see the tab indicated below with a red circle. You may want to either remove or tape down the orange bit directly below the plunger, to prevent it from falling out during modification.</span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2818/9779031073_8424a9a3a3_o.jpg" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="255" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2818/9779031073_56e6286072_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E3.1 - Plunger assembly as removed from shell</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="4">
<li>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">In the picture below, one can see the second tab, as indicated in red. The spring indicated by the yellow circle should be taken off and placed somewhere for safe keeping, during modification. Losing this spring will prevent proper rotation.
</span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2858/9779030503_8890bb11eb_o.jpg" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="260" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2858/9779030503_ed20c18f22_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E4.1 - Plunger assembly opposite side, rotation mechanism spring position</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Take care during the next step. Lift one of the pry tabs indicated carefully using a small flathead screwdriver and slide the orange plunger cap out, using the opposite side as a pivot point. This will give you access to the air restrictor. </span>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="5">
<li>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">In the picture below, you can see the orange plunger cap after separation from the plunger tube assembly. To increase air flow and complete air restrictor removal, cut across the red lines indicated in the left hand picture with a pair of dikes. In the picture adjacent to it, the plastic strip has been removed, and the hole has been widened.</span><span style="font-size: small;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7454/9778702864_235cc783f6_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="197" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7454/9778702864_398ee4ea49_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fig. E5.1 - Plunger cap</span> </span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">(Optional) If you so wish, the cap can be filled with hot glue or some other material to reduce a small amount of "<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-works-guide-zombie-strike-hammershot.html#F">deadspace</a></span>". The idea behind deadspace is that unused volume or space within the plunger assembly and the barrel decreases potential pressure behind the dart. There isn't a huge amount of deadspace in this system, and as such, it is a difficult modification for one to verify its effectiveness. For one of the Hammershots we modified, the deadspace was ras reduced, but the opening was kept as wide as the widened opening of the plunger cap.</span>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="6">
<li>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">To complete the removal of the air restrictor assembly, cut along the supports marked with red lines in the following picture, using your dikes. Now is a good time to clean up the cuts with a file.</span>
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<span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2809/9778501611_f6703887af_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="292" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2809/9778501611_66c075ff17_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E6.1 - Removal of air restrictor support from plunger tube</span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Now would be an excellent time to apply silicone lubricant to the inside of the plunger before reassembling it. Also be sure to clean out any plastic bits that have been left over from the air restrictor removal. If you wish, it is also a good time to apply a layer of Teflon tape under the o-ring. One or two wraps is sufficient. Any more and it applies too much friction to the plunger tube wall. Re-lubricate the o-ring as necessary. You are now ready to place the plunger cap back on. Before doing so, it is a good idea to apply lubrication between the two mating surfaces of the plunger cap and tube. This will provide a better air seal.</span>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="7">
<li>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">To remove the dart posts and allow your Hammershot to use any type of dart, cut your cylinder's dart post supports as shown. Cleaning the support cuts with a file is recommended, to allow for smooth rotation of the cylinder and prevent possible damage to darts due to sharp edges.</span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/9778692145_5083449910_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="392" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/9778692145_f5afbe3121_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E7.1 - Cylinder with removed dart posts</span></div>
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<li>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The purpose of spacers is to increase
the spring compression. It is made slightly wider than the orange spring
rest at the top of the shaft to accommodate a larger outer spring for nesting. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">This increases the spring compression when primed to nearly 100% and this method is much more durable than hot glue. </span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Additionally, should you have an extra
Retaliator/Rampage/Elite Alpha Trooper spring, it can nest over the
stock Hammershot spring. This guide uses an 8kg spring purchased from
SGNerf. A stock Retaliator spring adds a good amount of strength and depending on the spacing length, may provide more force than some people can prime with a
single thumb.</span><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></span><br />Homemade PVC spacers (skip to McMaster spacers section below if you are using McMaster spacers):<br /><br />For the purpose of this guide, and in the interest of time, a spacer was shaped from heat treated and flattened PVC.
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSLXvmu0924NbwA1TTR3yh3REfVr-c3llTWRrbiJL_izOkuoyOoLM-gDRPgwJk3Vyplbhx4o6-joMcuAsSI8t9muz-5LusZRgnt2qMVv2sGOSwK0HKzrnFBaWVK1NgCUjyDSRTkmRDj6s/s1600/spacerv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSLXvmu0924NbwA1TTR3yh3REfVr-c3llTWRrbiJL_izOkuoyOoLM-gDRPgwJk3Vyplbhx4o6-joMcuAsSI8t9muz-5LusZRgnt2qMVv2sGOSwK0HKzrnFBaWVK1NgCUjyDSRTkmRDj6s/s400/spacerv2.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"> Fig. E8.1 - PVC spring compression spacer</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The outer diameter should be approximately 3/4" (~19mm), and the inner diameter should be approximately 3/8" (~7mm). The thickness of a single spacer is approximately 0.14"-0.16". This dimension may vary with the flattening process. It is possible to fit up to 3 of these PVC spacers in between the spring and the top of the spring rest. Of course, you can use less at your own discretion.</span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">For smooth priming action, we recommend trimming the spacer along the red lines indicated above. A file or a dremel can be used to do so. Position the flat sides facing the screw posts (not shown in pictures below). This will allow the spacer to glide through without rubbing the plunger assembly. It should not rotate once the spring is applying pressure against it. However, it may be prudent to apply a small amount of hot glue to the top, to hold it in place and to prevent any possible rotation.</span><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We here at Better Nerf By
Science have found it to still be manageable with both an 8kg SGNerf
spring and a stock spring, with 3 spacers. Depending on the number of spacers and the nested spring used, it may take some trial and error to determine the optimal system for your needs.<br /><br />McMaster spacers:<br /><br />The McMaster spacer shown in Fig. E8.2 is the longer, 1/2 in. length one. These lengthier ones will work perfectly with stock Maverick springs (also shown in the same picture). Whether this spacer will work with the upgrade Maverick springs is untested and unknown. It may be possible to use these spacers with stock/upgrade Retaliator springs. But because the spacer is so long, it becomes very difficult to push the nested springs inside the inner shell spring housing. I seem to recall catch issues with this setup as well, or maybe it is because I thought the blaster will break with the setup that I refrained from this build. The stock/upgrade Retaliator spacer I linked above is 3/8 in. in length. I have not tested this spacer length myself but I am confident that this spacer, along with using a stock Retaliator spring as the outer nest spring will be the perfect build for most people. More specifically, this setup should still be very prime-able with one thumb/hand while maintaining a good balance of power, reliability and durability. If you want to experiment various spacer lengths with various springs, we recommend getting the longer spacers (the ones linked for stock Maverick springs) and shaving them down to the desired length for experimentation/modification.<br /><br />The pre-made McMasters spacers are pretty much ready to install right out of the box. Here is an example of a completely unmodified McMaster spacer in the Hammershot:</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPhJDawnmgu3xmhjE29LcmWLblNFthbZWXjEaJIMw-45jQEK0K_cxAvQqPFeWlFoUsm30_3cIx8OkxFYr41mjUbLJrJdKwUHZSIJr9iR0iFoWs1ycPihd9o07BacQ_FNrligIHI5QgjSl/s1600/IMG_0007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPhJDawnmgu3xmhjE29LcmWLblNFthbZWXjEaJIMw-45jQEK0K_cxAvQqPFeWlFoUsm30_3cIx8OkxFYr41mjUbLJrJdKwUHZSIJr9iR0iFoWs1ycPihd9o07BacQ_FNrligIHI5QgjSl/s400/IMG_0007.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fig. E8.2 - McMaster spacer in Hammershot</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br />Here is a picture of the spacer by itself:</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7o2R8T8yOOZFTpTF6PuCSi_c-K-vHGpvudfrtHfUtV-7Du5eDXYx3zAo9cdOCHj-G0dCozw7UEfstZnHTk1631w-J6-k5PjtaIT5_U8BXbAcj6NiI0vmBhSQgpsrgTMHEfJmbRCSSpYJ4/s1600/spacer.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7o2R8T8yOOZFTpTF6PuCSi_c-K-vHGpvudfrtHfUtV-7Du5eDXYx3zAo9cdOCHj-G0dCozw7UEfstZnHTk1631w-J6-k5PjtaIT5_U8BXbAcj6NiI0vmBhSQgpsrgTMHEfJmbRCSSpYJ4/s400/spacer.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fig. E8.3 - McMaster spacer</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br />The picture above shows the side of the spacer where there is a small lip from the normal face of the side to the inner cut-out cylinder. Although this is not specified in the product's datasheet, it is an advantageous feature for us because it is the perfect housing for the coned top of the stock spring. So place this side of the spacer towards the spring(s).<br /><br />Although the spacer will work out of the box, you might want to modify it slightly for optimal performance in your Hammershot. The large outer diameter of the stock spacer will grind along the inner shell's seat-post housings during priming and releasing of the spring. Grind the spacer's sides to prevent this from degrading performance. Refer to Fig. E8.1 to see approximately how much to shave off.</span></li>
</ol>
<ol start="9">
<li>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">It is now time to reassemble the blaster. Remember to place the tactical rail lock back in (shown with a red circle in Fig. E9.1). Also, do not forget the spring mentioned in step 4, it must be placed correctly to ensure proper rotation. Notice the nested 8kg SGNerf spring with a single PVC spacer. Remember that the stock spring's wider opening rests on the bottom. We recommend making sure the openings of each spring face opposite each other, where the outer nested spring has its opening facing the inside of the shell. You may find it difficult to insert both springs, especially under increased compression, but it is possible. Exercise caution, as the springs may pop out of position during reassembly. Try to position the spring flex away from the shell half you are installing on top, so that it does not press against the shell and hinder reassembly.</span><span style="font-size: small;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7433/9778521842_8ab35d1196_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7433/9778521842_60c2197a99_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E9.1 - Reassembly</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">It may also be prudent to
apply a small amount of lubrication to the outside of the plunger,
along the white support area highlighted by yellow circles, to ensure smooth cylinder air sealing
action. This is because the plunger slides forward to form a seal
against the cylinder.</span><span style="font-size: small;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGG05X-b0CFRyld5PXxixeseP-4qNYo4Z3HvpSgD7mqcYILDEuLNhAwBJ_LONsttp3pBoBKW8ipx_ZLGsAaMVoubJWpYTTJ49LN1bFUTLf-X1pITzZgOsNzRtBf1RvJx8PnqZVCrIEodg/s1600/rotationmechv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGG05X-b0CFRyld5PXxixeseP-4qNYo4Z3HvpSgD7mqcYILDEuLNhAwBJ_LONsttp3pBoBKW8ipx_ZLGsAaMVoubJWpYTTJ49LN1bFUTLf-X1pITzZgOsNzRtBf1RvJx8PnqZVCrIEodg/s400/rotationmechv2.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Fig. E9.2 - Reassembly, with highlighted areas of interest</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">You may encounter a sealing problem with the blaster's rotation mechanism. Under high spring compression, the blaster had trouble sometimes properly rotating the cylinder. This would prevent a proper air seal from forming. There were two solutions found to work on this problem. One was to add a dab of super glue between the rotation mechanism highlighted by the blue oval and its support, to keep it from moving. The other solution was to place maybe less than a tenth of an inch of hot glue to the top of the rotation mechanism. This causes it to press against the other half of the shell more, preventing any sort of play in its movement.</span><span style="font-size: small;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-X88Gtx6JBoUU6zazWY7qvahv0HBC0ufETTtI70vYubC5tKeFkku2_NLMqIf55sTBVvs_BE2Lz0ftx2j3fpCojJnro9kxLCWYd2hpBzYX1NOnxXhV_6s9mVT8RrfOh3V2jbbXTnsaUE/s1600/screwsuggestionv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-X88Gtx6JBoUU6zazWY7qvahv0HBC0ufETTtI70vYubC5tKeFkku2_NLMqIf55sTBVvs_BE2Lz0ftx2j3fpCojJnro9kxLCWYd2hpBzYX1NOnxXhV_6s9mVT8RrfOh3V2jbbXTnsaUE/s400/screwsuggestionv2.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig. E9.3 - Suggested order of screw reassembly</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">In the above diagram, some screw positions have been suggested to be placed first. This is done to secure springs and rotation mechanism first, as looseness in either area can cause problems during reassembly otherwise. The order is also influenced by doing opposite screw positions to optimize pressure on those portions of the shell as well.</span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">There are some other things to note when reassembling your blaster. You will no longer experience a click when manually rotating your cylinder, as this click was caused by the air restrictor moving from barrel to barrel. However, this should not affect your seal as when the blaster is primed, it will line up the barrels correctly, provided you assembled the rotation mechanism correctly. </span><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Another thing to note is that it may be better to place one spacer on top, and the remaining spacer(s) on bottom, if you can shape the spacers to fit on the bottom. The reason being that the spring will be moving less mass, albeit slightly less mass, so more of its power is used to project the dart. This is mentioned because people may not use light material like the PVC spacer made here, or the nylon mentioned. It is possible to use other appropriately sized materials, like metal washers.</span></li>
</ol>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="F"></a><b><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">F. Appendix</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The concept of deadspace is a very old one in the Nerf modding community. It submits that a reduction in unused volume in a plunger system will increase the pressure exerted on the dart.
We can verify this by thinking about the ideal gas law.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"> <img border="0" height="23" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu2QVoy3v0UIFLumTfuye8He1wDY76UBAbVIcIo0lU3gyBxh23RvA0p0EfgDGAeVdZmqFCjiJwwEAXtXc3a0O-h_bZVz-xVGNCuVOyvsjT7iJdcZ71S9oL-sXQ1rrmLq-3Jitg1tIl-Cc/s200/idealgaslaw.jpg" width="200" /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig F1.1 - Ideal Gas Law </span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Where n is the number of moles, R is the constant of the gas in question, and T is temperature. We can view the entire right side of the equation as a constant in our system. In the rewritten equation below, we can see the inverse relation between the two. By moving V to the right side, we can see that as V increase, pressure decreases.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUYqcyomgTqOnz7G8bxu3YxMLx3PBiFM9LWZAcxPv6QZsWUOp38P4f4gDk10vSLRdLViApaGD0SYTk-w_5valsZZ1oz-LKqTcluZftDOYq6Ej_NwdK6iX7oxn7pb80BfC4BVYbZK6CnDA/s1600/idealgaslawv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="46" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUYqcyomgTqOnz7G8bxu3YxMLx3PBiFM9LWZAcxPv6QZsWUOp38P4f4gDk10vSLRdLViApaGD0SYTk-w_5valsZZ1oz-LKqTcluZftDOYq6Ej_NwdK6iX7oxn7pb80BfC4BVYbZK6CnDA/s200/idealgaslawv2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig F1.2 - Ideal Gas Law, rewritten</span> </span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">This brings us to the question of the importance of deadspace reduction. By calculating the volume of the front plunger cap before and after deadspace reduction, we can see how much it may make a difference.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNlKzrwC6YGS46xzxS1VE5OXPV_hsSdeqTOdWUaCuDfIyEJ6GfimsOP5yLQ-CiChOzqM9sznptnmk3CoTfrK9-Je5Q8yy8eSx06pPRov5TVJjmdgMw5w2nOcvi_eUB7dya6-Le5fnMwDs/s1600/plungercapdimensionsv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNlKzrwC6YGS46xzxS1VE5OXPV_hsSdeqTOdWUaCuDfIyEJ6GfimsOP5yLQ-CiChOzqM9sznptnmk3CoTfrK9-Je5Q8yy8eSx06pPRov5TVJjmdgMw5w2nOcvi_eUB7dya6-Le5fnMwDs/s400/plungercapdimensionsv2.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig F1.3 - Plunger tube cap measurements</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Here are some measurements taken. They are rough measurements, and some simplifications will be made to make the math easier. Without getting too much into it, these are the relevant equations. There is a limitation to the dimensions that can be measured within this system. We will be assuming ideal conditions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvSaeM7ia0mcS9UgsS4ILxWg-MJBx4iqzHY1r71qQ6s1UxTHiAQBRsnsF8_X_hzjUw7ore4tu4DfdDTQvM-TzObHNyfZIbKoQ6q91XzLqY0ueetc_2K_l8fXhhuqADoFtoTiq7YJ43dVg/s1600/equationsv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvSaeM7ia0mcS9UgsS4ILxWg-MJBx4iqzHY1r71qQ6s1UxTHiAQBRsnsF8_X_hzjUw7ore4tu4DfdDTQvM-TzObHNyfZIbKoQ6q91XzLqY0ueetc_2K_l8fXhhuqADoFtoTiq7YJ43dVg/s400/equationsv2.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig F1.4 - Equations for volume of the plunger cap</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Eq.2 is the volume of the red section displayed in Fig. F1.1, Eq.3 is the volume of the yellow section, and Eq.4 is the volume of the blue section. Equation 4 is a simplified version of the math, that should be good enough for our purposes. The blue section has been modeled as a truncated cone, despite one end being an ellipse. The math for the true model ends up being more complex than is really needed. An approximation of the exact dimensions will be more than enough for our purposes. In any case, the combined plunger cap volume can be estimated to be 0.4238656 inches cubed. Eq.5 is the volume of the plunger cap once one has reduced deadspace. This is almost 1/4 the volume of the original plunger cap.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPCTW2iv9EIyBumh9RKOr-z1IdMHRoDr5rxMRhHRVXT5x-KNoT0-lycuHY2PNMb2dOEENkx-k_5Ie7pwkHrjdjMKPiBLh1t3kSkmsS5tPccr5iourJo_HR78swhxrHXOkCu2e7KdsKDY/s1600/equations2v2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPCTW2iv9EIyBumh9RKOr-z1IdMHRoDr5rxMRhHRVXT5x-KNoT0-lycuHY2PNMb2dOEENkx-k_5Ie7pwkHrjdjMKPiBLh1t3kSkmsS5tPccr5iourJo_HR78swhxrHXOkCu2e7KdsKDY/s320/equations2v2.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Fig F1.5 - Equations for volume of the plunger tube</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Eq.6 is the volume of the unused portion of the plunger tube. Eq.7 is the volume of the effective plunger tube. These numbers do not take into account the travel of the plunger tube when it slides forward for the seal. Adding the unused plunger tube to the original plunger cap, we have 0.7116106 inches cubed. That's almost as much as the effective plunger, nearly 71% of the effective volume. With reduced deadspace, we have 0.387459 inches cubed. That's nearly half of the original deadspace, a non-insignificant number.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Unfortunately, we cannot truly calculate the effectiveness of the deadspace reduction, or cannot say there is a direct correlation between pressure and volume in our system, since we cannot currently measure the speed of the plunger or the pressure that it compresses the volume of the effective plunger to. But it is easy to see that in the equation, this is a significant amount of volume reduction, which due to the inverse relation of pressure and volume, as related to us by the ideal gas law, we can see that there will be a noticeable increase in pressure. </span> </span></span></div>
azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-4626633795161765262013-09-20T16:35:00.002-07:002013-09-20T16:35:45.304-07:00The Truth Behind TrustfiresIt seems that one of the most heavily debated questions among the Nerf community is: can Trustfires be used for mods?<br />
<br />
The short answer is: yes. The Pros and Cons of Trustfires are listed below.<br />
<br />
Pros:<br />
<ul>
<li>Fits AA battery holders</li>
<li>Very cheap</li>
<li>Easy to mod</li>
<li>Limited current output (2.5C max. cont. => 2.25 A max. cont. current, 4.5 A max. burst current) </li>
</ul>
Cons:<br />
<ul>
<li>Limited current output (2.5C max. cont. => 2.25 A max. cont. current, 4.5 A max. burst current)</li>
<li>Low Capacity (900 mAh)</li>
</ul>
First of all, you may have noticed that limited current output is listed in both the Pros and Cons list. I assure you that this is not a mistake. The biggest and perhaps only argument that people have against using Trustfires is the fact that they cannot supply no where near the amount of current even stock motors need at common modded voltages. I have a degree in electrical engineering and I can assure you that using Trustfires as the power supply for any Nerf application that involves propelling darts is terrible engineering. In fact, I wrote a guide on how to properly pair a battery to a motor, or vice versa.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_5065.html">FB1: How to select an electrical power system: motor and battery</a><br />
<br />
Now I could bore you with a bunch of facts and logic (sort of what the above linked guide is composed of), but suffice it to say that Trustfires are not made for high power applications, and shooting darts at the range you want is. Engineering-wise, stressing a component beyond its specified limits is bad. In the real world, this only becomes a problem if undesirable effects are seen. To my knowledge, I have never heard of anyone's Trustfires blowing up or catching fire or even leaking due to abusing them in their Nerf blasters. In addition, because Trustfires are current limited, they do not trigger the thermoresists (based on my testings, may trigger in a hot day). I slapped in 3 Trustfires into a Rapidstrike for the luls and it fired beautifully. When I switched them for a 3s LiPo, the thermoresists got trigger after only a few shots. Having to be able to leave the thermoresists in the blaster is safer, especially for the audience that Trustfires attract (noobs). In addition, since Nerf flywheel systems are not "torque" limited at no load, high RPMs, a trustfire system can project a dart nearly as far as a system with a proper battery. This means that the benefits of over-volting still applies as long as the motors at no load (revved but not shooting darts) do not pull more than the Trustfires' maximum continuous discharge current (2.25 A for a single/in series 14500, 900 mAh cell/cells). The spin-up/recovery time is the only real performance factor that suffers from using a current limited battery. However, this does not mean that you should push the voltage as high as possible. Higher voltages mean higher no load currents as well as increased spin-up/recovery times.<br />
<br />
In the end, Trustfires are no where near the ideal battery for Nerf power applications. However, its near "drop-in and shoot" ability makes it a very compelling mod for those who do not have the time/technical expertise/tools/money/patience to carryout a real, proper mod to their blaster.xinfamousx101http://www.blogger.com/profile/18229735381181616234noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-9186001014665925442013-08-26T19:01:00.001-07:002013-08-31T19:03:46.365-07:00Hammershot Holster<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Thought I might try my hand at making a holster for my Hammershots.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHyMOlpRFDaVMKaTQHtFexBWUDEgLB2E3xy8DRvhko6HS9DG1VY8xKuzNnpxQlhNu_j6VfYLbspqqdO-7kvKdzzRDoKI0DT8t01ZHLfUQtlYU_kONbIMfstPWLE08nk-tYcwIky8UtWXE/s640/blogger-image--300526662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHyMOlpRFDaVMKaTQHtFexBWUDEgLB2E3xy8DRvhko6HS9DG1VY8xKuzNnpxQlhNu_j6VfYLbspqqdO-7kvKdzzRDoKI0DT8t01ZHLfUQtlYU_kONbIMfstPWLE08nk-tYcwIky8UtWXE/s400/blogger-image--300526662.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div>
Got all the materials at Walmart.</div>
<div>
Big thanks to wh0wants2know on reddit for the tips! Good luck in your upcoming custom tactical gear business venture.</div>
azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-42608384919579665772013-08-23T10:17:00.001-07:002013-08-23T16:54:21.261-07:00Work in Progress: Silicone Dome Dart MoldsInfamous and I have been working on a little project to replace the now defunct (as far as I know) PAK D's dart tips.<br />
<div>
These gold tips are made of a mixture of silicone and cornstarch, a popular DIY recipe called Oogoo.<br />
<br />
More after the jump! <br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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The molds were done in Solidworks, and printed in ABS plastic on an UP! plus 3D printer.</div>
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Currently on version 2, very happy with how well the ribs formed, they should help grip the foam rather well. The rounded some part was smoothed by carefully rubbing in acetone to melt the surface. It's a more controlled way of vapor polishing that doesn't compromise the internal structural integrity.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXshiAMJMbcqK3BUPbG3vxyoo5yIg1tHzGb6bf3LG0BQ0v66F53sZRDO7426Cp6xN6JcakU9BxrHeae9PZ_kyIf7l17t6k8zUzGnoDKz57dASfIIfXrp524J17B6eFBnd2GA0cQJ0PLxw/s640/blogger-image-1250123910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXshiAMJMbcqK3BUPbG3vxyoo5yIg1tHzGb6bf3LG0BQ0v66F53sZRDO7426Cp6xN6JcakU9BxrHeae9PZ_kyIf7l17t6k8zUzGnoDKz57dASfIIfXrp524J17B6eFBnd2GA0cQJ0PLxw/s640/blogger-image-1250123910.jpg" /></a></div>
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The molds fasten together with a 10-32 nut and bolt.</div>
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I have been able to hopper these type of domed darts before, the feel and hardness is about the same as the PAK D stuff, and weighs the same. They may be a bit softer, actually. I'll have to shoot infamous later for a true scientific test. The thought process for these darts was that conventional silicone dome darts don't weigh enough to make for stable dart flight. These ones weigh about 0.8-0.9g alone.</div>
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<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">I have to experiment with making a pourable oogoo mix for more repeatable results, but our plan is to release these molds to the public.</span></div>
azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4127310479227020074.post-31715605075301449942013-08-18T05:46:00.002-07:002013-09-19T23:15:10.782-07:00The Works Guide: Elite Rayven<div class="separator" style="display: none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUG63SMY8zYYF7HBZxyFp4PV_kNJcoflFwVmoxpLYehaJW4t07f3q33qD7GpvsrHvy6VuSwPXwWp623BprGknAWl9yq9tg4HUkgvCOiMqlp6ptCrBoPe9V0lhNLLAcqijAtHa5-AgDosdP/s1600/cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUG63SMY8zYYF7HBZxyFp4PV_kNJcoflFwVmoxpLYehaJW4t07f3q33qD7GpvsrHvy6VuSwPXwWp623BprGknAWl9yq9tg4HUkgvCOiMqlp6ptCrBoPe9V0lhNLLAcqijAtHa5-AgDosdP/s320/cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>Table of Contents</b><br />
<br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#A">A. Introduction</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#B">B. Compatibility</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#C">C. Tools</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#D">D. Parts</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#E">E. Modifications</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#F">F. Appendix</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#FA1">FA1: How to unscrew and screw screws correctly</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#FA2">FA2: How to desolder and solder correctly</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#FA3">FA3: How to break-in electrical motors</a><br />
<a href="http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-works-guide-elite-rayven.html#FB1">FB1: How to select an electrical power system: motor and battery</a><br />
<br />
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="A"></a><b>A.
Introduction</b></span></div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> Welcome
to the Rayven's edition of The Works Guide series. This guide will
cover a complete rebuild of the Nerf Rayven blaster's electrical
system. Instead of using simple contact switches, a relay system will
be implemented to allow higher current limitations for aftermarket
motors. This guide will also go through the motor and battery
replacement process, as well as removal of all locks and other
optional upgrades.</span></span></div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br />More after the jump!</span></span></div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> Although
the main focus of this guide is original, many portions of the
modification are repeated from other guides/posts for completeness.
It is difficult to accredit everyone for their contribution, but this
is mentioned to support the community. Here at Better Nerf by
Science, clarity and documentation are also keenly focused to make
these guides as easy to follow as possible and allow the creation of
an awesome blaster!</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="B"></a><b>B.
Compatibility</b></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> The
only part of this guide that must be strictly followed is the
electrical wiring section. The locks removal is optional and this
modification will work with them intact. The motor and battery system
is also interchangeable with any system that is compatible with the
blaster as well as with each other.</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="C"></a><b>C.
Tools</b></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Note:
Any tool that fits the listed description can be used. The first
specific item below the description is the tool used in making this
guide. Additional options may be shown.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Required:</span></div>
<ul>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Philips
jeweler's screwdriver<br />- Stanley Jewelers Precision Screwdriver
Set: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326267&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+precision+screwdriver+set">amazon</a><br />-Wiha
26194 Screwdriver Set (high quality): <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26194-Screwdriver-Phillips-Precision/dp/B000NZ5QGK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326509&sr=8-5&keywords=wiha">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Soldering
iron<br />-Hakko FX-888: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888-FX-888-Soldering-Station/dp/B004M3U0VU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375338930&sr=8-2&keywords=hakko+fx+888">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Utility
knife<br />-Husky Folding Utility Knife: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/HUSKY-FOLDING-UTILITY-KNIFE-BLADES/dp/B008DW2CO4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1375339317&sr=8-4&keywords=husky+knife">amazon</a><br />-Gerber
22-41830 EAB Pocket Knife: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-41830-Pocket-Knife-Exchange/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1375339674&sr=8-12&keywords=utility+knife">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Small
flat head screwdriver<br />- Stanley Jewelers Precision Screwdriver
Set: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326267&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+precision+screwdriver+set">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Hot
glue gun</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Wide
pliers</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Hand
drill or drill press</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">(double
shaft motors only) Dremel or hacksaw or heavy duty cutters<br />-Dremel
400 XPR (old tool, many newer alternatives now)</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Recommended:</span></div>
<ul>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">File
or sandpaper</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Wire
stripper</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Multimeter<br />-AideTek
VC97+: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/AideTek-VC97-Multimeter-Capacitor-Frequency/dp/B008GTEZPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375340940&sr=8-1&keywords=vc97">amazon</a><br />-Fluke
179 (high quality): <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-ESFP-True-Multimeter-Backlight/dp/B00012Z0V6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375340733&sr=8-1&keywords=fluke+179">amazon</a></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Dremel</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">An
assistant</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="D"></a><b>D.
Parts</b></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Note:
Any part that fits the listed description can be used. The first
specific item below the description is the part used in making this
guide. Additional options may be shown.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Electrical
system overhaul:</span></div>
<ul>
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Low
resistance wire</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Note: Teflon wires are used in making this guide. They provide excellent high temperature protection such as fires. However, they are very stiff and put a lot of stress on wire joints.</span></span> If stress relieve is not implemented on these joints, they will eventually break under vibration or shock. Silicon wires are recommended because they are flexible and do not stress the joints, making them reliable. <br />
-Gore 22 AWG Silver Plated Tri Insulation Teflon
Kapton Wire 19 strands: <span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-feet-Gore-22-AWG-Silver-Plated-Tri-Insulation-Teflon-Kapton-Wire-19-strands-/380518684854?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5898ae58b6">ebay
(white)</a><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
</span></span><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Gore-22-AWG-Silver-Plated-Tri-Insulation-Teflon-Kapton-Wire-19-strands-Red-/230883419086?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item35c1b963ce">ebay
(red)</a> </span><br />
-Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 18 AWG: <span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42765__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_18AWG_1mtr_Black_USA_warehouse_.html">Hobbyking (black)</a> <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43355__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_18AWG_1mtr_Red_USA_warehouse_.html">Hobbyking (red)</a></span><br />
-Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 18 AWG: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42755__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_16AWG_1mtr_BLACK_USA_warehouse_.html">Hobbyking (black)</a> <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42756__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_16AWG_1mtr_Red_USA_warehouse_.html">Hobbyking (red)</a></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Single
pole double throw (SPDT) relay (select one that matches the battery
voltage!)<br />-Generic 6 V 10 A SPDT relay (bought at local
electronic shop)<br /><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">-</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">Turn On Voltage range:</span></span></span></span> 2.94V - 6.3V</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"> (1 cell LiPo): <a href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=G5LA-1-E-CF_DC5virtualkey65300000virtualkey653-G5LA-1-E-CFDC5">Mouser</a> </span></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">-</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">Turn On Voltage range: 5.88V - 12.66V </span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">(2 cell LiPo)</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">: <a href="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/G5LA-1-E-CF-DC9/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujnR498Oy3txhKXHyqe%252bI8jLIXdYffWPOwLcnFCPokeknTpyO%252bPWbPX">Mouser</a> </span></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">-Turn On Voltage range: 9V - 13.5V </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">(3 cell LiPo):</span></span> <a href="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/G5LA-1-E-CF-DC12/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujnR498Oy3txhKXHyqe%252bI8jts2MkDK26wjO9VuQ4atbk3gfii%2f2DyWH">Mouser</a> </span></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">-Turn On Voltage range: 13.5V - 23.5V</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">(4 cell LiPo):</span></span> <span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Electric-Works/ALQ118/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtSzCF3XBhmWxlIP1AFKBDBP7JFwaIfHQY%3d">Mouser</a></span> </span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Wire
wrap<br />-Heat shrink (match wire gauge, highly recommended,
available at local electronic shops such as Frys)<br />-Electrical
tape</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Recommended
power system replacements (motors and battery):</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Note:
refer to FA3: How to break-in electrical motors in the Appendix
section at the end of the guide for more information and/or to create
a custom combination.</span></div>
<ol>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Tamiyas
and LiPo - used in this guide and conservatively tested. This setup
does over volt the motors quite a bit and the brushes or motors may
have to be replaced periodically with heavy use. See option 2 for a
more durable setup.<br />~2x Tamiya JR Mach-Dash Motor PRO:
<a href="http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam15433.htm">Hobbylinc</a><br />~Gens
Ace LIPO Battery 4300MAH 30C 7.4V: <a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-4300-2s3p-hardcase-saddle.html">Hobbypartz</a><br /><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> Note:
this package comes with two separate hard case single celled LiPo
batteries, only one battery will be used at a time.</span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">PNs
and LiPo – if money is not an issue, this is the best system
possible with 130-sized brushed DC motors. With more than ten times
the Mach Dash Pro's torque (PN @ 4.2 V), the PN racing motor uses
neo magnets, ball bearings and carbon brushes, outputting the
maximum performance possible. This system works amazingly with 1s
LiPos (4.2 V) and is very reliable at this voltage. The motors can
handle 2s LiPos (8.4 V), but they spin so fast that the flywheels do
not have enough grip onto the motor shafts and will slowly come off
the motors until they rub against the motor cage. Gluing the
flywheels to the motor shafts is not recommended as it will render
the system permanent.<br />~2x PN Racing Mini-Z PNWC Ball Bearing
Motor 32 Turn – <a href="http://www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-PNWC-Ball-Bearing-Motor-32-Turn_p_43045.html">Kenonhobby</a><br />~Gens
Ace LIPO Battery 4300MAH 30C 7.4V: <a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-4300-2s3p-hardcase-saddle.html">Hobbypartz</a><br /><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> Note:
this package comes with two separate hard case single celled LiPo
batteries, only one battery will be used at a time.</span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Tamiyas
and rechargeable lithium batteries - untested, see note below.<br />~2x
Tamiya JR Mach-Dash Motor PRO: <a href="http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam15433.htm">Hobbylinc</a><br />~3.7
V 18650 3600 mAh rechargeable lithium battery: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/3600mah-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery-Charger/dp/B00AT66CEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375400606&sr=8-1&keywords=rechargeable+lithium+ion+batteries">Amazon</a><br /><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> Note:
the two batteries that comes with this package must be paralleled in
order for this system to work properly. The protection circuit
might pose a problem if it is set trigger at a current that is
less than the maximum output current.</span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">RM2s
and LiPo <br />~2x Solarbotics RM2: <a href="http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/611">Pololu</a><br />~GENS
ACE 1300mAh 25C 11.1V LiPo Battery: <a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-1300-3s1p.html">Hobbypartz</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Note:
Some people have used this setup with varying degrees of success. They have reported brush failures with RM2s. It may not be recommended to use them with higher than 2s.</span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">(optional)
Noise/vibration reduction:</span></div>
<ul>
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Vibration
reduction material<br />~craft foam<br />~Dynamat (high quality
vibration dampening): <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/10415-12-DYNAMAT-XTREME-Speaker-Kit-2-12-x12-NEW-50-MORE-DYNAMAT-THAN-10415-/250895051336?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6a82aa48">ebay</a></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="E"></a><b>E.
Modification</b></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Note:
be sure to read an entire numbered section before proceeding each
step.</span></div>
<ol>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Open the blaster<br />Remove the 17
screws indicated below in red and gently pry open the blaster. The
tactical rail is a good place to start splitting the blaster. Beware
of the tactical rail lock spring that may fly out.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2885/9544581604_fc472c6e9e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKvfpeu0Vn7Jo2rCuD_VCgPrDip0bnXRVdN9RWKMS6HJJdQlPRc3aauP78vqewW8CmaNnG5NgkJzHO4IxAg1gTyps1xTAIj9Fg-b5wlVoZDbJyQ0pR7Sf5O5Fh_rI7D3qPnYQzsO0bvq4/w836-h558-no/Rayven2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E1.1
– Rayven screws and rail lock locations</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="2">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Thermoresist
and inductors removal<br />Thermoresists create electrical resistance
in series with the motor when it is heated from high current draw.
They are designed to protect the stock motors from stalling when a
dart jams the flywheels. Removing the thermoresists is necessary for
high power systems as they will trigger the thermoresists almost
instantly under normal operation. The inductors prevent the
electrical noise created by the brushed motors from reaching the
power lines. It effectively does the same thing as putting
capacitors across the motor terminals. These techniques are used to
reduce electrical noise on the power lines of the system. Since
there are no electrical signals in this system, these devices are
not necessary. Remove the inductors by unsoldering the joints
circled below in red. Cut the wires circled below in yellow and pull
out the theromoresist PCB circled below in orange.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3742/9541790861_9a3af4cd20_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34QLA-CUe6jLkOdTc6hTUP7lFUiIHnfSn3yeubjMrU93YnRWoNatl8ZWSE-AYCsymOA9upJllTKVx3Hot2WGVFEZry5yaOtOZjcMrYSuDyg0wnK5jrPzLSHXEf7Ldpbm8169qCg4tNHI/w250-h531-no/Rayven3.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E2.1 –
Thermoresists and inductors removal</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="3">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">(optional)
Electrical and mechanical locks removal<br />The electrical lock
circled below in red brakes the motors when the jam door is opened.
The electrical lock circled below in orange brakes the motors when
the clip is removed. The mechanical lock circled below in yellow
prevents the trigger from being pulled without a clip. The
mechanical lock indicated below in green is the accelerator trigger
lock. It prevents the trigger from being pulled when the accelerator
trigger is not engaged. The removal of this lock is not recommended
Accidentally pulling the trigger without powering the motors will
push a dart in the flywheels. If the motors are powered when a dart
is already in the flywheels, it will jam the motors and stall it,
eventually burning it out in a few seconds. Remove the two
electronic locks (cut the wires attached to the switches) and their
components shown below with three red circles. Remove the two clip
lock parts shown below with two yellow circles. Lastly, remove the
accelerator trigger pusher circled below in green. </span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5461/9541804925_4c624c5ecb_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4H_jZjyBw0f55hNENQR5q7vf9DiVkIsqKPC9THG_HUBYNP-0QQlGILJTttEVzuLClrImmW2HQhx3PCvmsxEhrhaHEjVtv98fhWvqhG-5ngveWcMJAfQFvcoOwfmqMUz-VPl5kXLgKN8/w796-h531-no/Rayven4.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; margin-left: 40px; page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E3.1 –
locks positions</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The removed accelerator trigger
pusher piece needs to be shaved to remove the accelerator trigger
lock. This can be done with the utility knife, or more easily with a
Dremel, file or sandpaper.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/9541792571_58ba00f65c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCtNpHSQU2yGThF9QMcwg0KAT7h_wDaXmAeu_ylJWwkO2UP-DUi76Pk2TLXv4wLKRl_9WjMbYyZtODdw3vnRXyozt7BlvYw3rubFeiFeyhIimIL-uZYr52KsgtDnvQi5xzM_cgtOW5wGs/w1044-h469-no/Rayven5.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E3.2 –
stock accelerator trigger pusher on the left, shaved accelerator
trigger pusher on the right</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Be sure to shave off the lock part
completely as indicated above.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="4">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Stock
wires removal<br />To incorporate a relay, the blaster's electrical
system must be reworked. There are probably enough stock wires to
implement this, but it is much more convenient and less worrisome to
purchase new wires. In addition, the wires can be upgraded to larger
gauge, less resistive wires to minimize power transfer loss as well
as better insulted wires for improved wire protection. Remove the
mag well that guards the battery leads and unsolder the wires from
the two battery leads circled below in red. Unsoldering these leads
may be difficult. Please read <u>FA2: How to unsolder and solder
correctly</u> to easily unsolder these joints.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/9541803443_50007f3af1_o_d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbJvcjjq4hDw42ShedfGNUmNlLDjrd4M8WwtBl0u4ZrArITlhPBMHefyovL8neQfV5iFhWwMXsfqPNLZADW_qNCRO_7WOxlWSRFwNqE15KQ-HbTB7teblzRf01R14RQhtgsQYTNggjHdQ/w796-h531-no/rayvenfix.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E4.1 –
blaster with stock wires removed</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">This is what the blaster should
look like after all of the locks have been removed (except for the
accelerator trigger lock, this was performed later when making this
guide). If step 3 was not performed, detach the wires from the two
electrical locks by cutting the heat shrink with the utility knife
and unsoldering the wires from the switches' leads. Once this is
done, all of the stock wires should come out and the blaster should
look similar to what is shown in Fig. E4.1, with the appropriate lock
switches in place.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="5">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">(difficult)
Stock motor removal<br />Lift the motor cage out of the blaster and
remove the rubber dart straightener by unscrewing the screw circled
below in red along with its equivalent on the opposite side of the
motor cage.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7394/9544579792_85d5349eab_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkepLfHWo1bOwUBc5YACBIr5_kXxE9AvtNHzulq5UX4kuAMQnVmp-sk2Z3pwt8DNx55l-pU-EmF72w-IPnG9KAkJqU-rHW5AN2BHTemw5Vz_lhaufTbt3O0t2yNvxFvbOyVrKEkGIc8Yw/w378-h531-no/Rayven7.jpg" width="227" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E5.1 –
motor cage dis-assembly</span>
</div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Split apart the motor cage by
removing the two screws circled in yellow above and pushing in the
four sidewall hooks circled in orange above. Pry off the flywheels
with a small flat head screwdriver as shown below. Be sure to extend
the flat head screwdriver all to the way to the end of the flywheel
so the entry and exit of the screwdriver can be seen. Also note that
the flat end of screwdriver should be flesh with the flywheel, as
accidently incorrectly shown in the figure below. If possible, insert
another flat head screwdriver to the other side of the same flywheel
to prop it off symmetrically.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center; widows: 1;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/9541792157_7bc4b448d0_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzD6Jd5dXF2erahSdurBH9gcLRvFyz9VITc-gHC0cCtITgwX4PigvwmY6-HHYeF6QTkMQbVEtbPOE3jiEcnsLfx4ZS1Istja6ocW6DaJUunr7tP34guN1rjTQ5qUZAFO-1TDenygcdKVE/w835-h531-no/Rayven8.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E5.2 –
flywheel removal</span>
</div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Cut the yellow glue gluing the
motors to the motor cage with the utility knife as shown below. Be
sure to cut deep, straight into the cage as the glue may extend well
into the cage.</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2830/9541791893_e40f466a4b_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjB2nja0bsw9_zrKUGAjOf8jTq9rsXAwkU4BMbUyRzZJN1c3ziHuCVHIhLdPEVZ4euSs651Nef5Rex9LWv9CCudENZV9gWe8oDnO4h4yrfYbWUqtESdnOqjTJAJEgDRmi2xHWX2iL1RRs/w430-h531-no/Rayven9.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E5.3 –
motor glue removal</span>
</div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The extent of the glue into the
motor cage is shown below for reference.</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3754/9541791735_1d3b1cf6c0_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVHdYifiYuBCNdx8yywwQiK5x-Ki-mGiLkCnKql_yndrI7-Ydl2uv8xYYuq4PsL7uW4fVIwjAganP8Lxa_51dwHP8hWUU3LPtQvpLSaOUKeZNmbqWxUmtWmcGL3BUGAX8dxcyq6y-Qs0/w497-h531-no/Rayven10.jpg" width="299" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E5.4 –
motor glue extension reference</span>
</div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Removing the stock motors without
damaging them can be quite difficult. To do so would require pulling
out the motors without pushing on the shafts, as pressuring the
shafts hard will damage the motors. This may be easy if the glue is
thoroughly removed. But if the glue extends deep into the motor cage,
doing so might be challenging. If the motors do not need to be
preserved (RM2s are a good direct replacement to the stock motors),
it is possible to pop off the motors by pushing hard on the motor
cage to a hard surface with the motor shaft being the only contact to
the surface. Warning, this process may damage the surface. Be sure to
use a non-valuable and/or protected surface. If only the top part of
the motor comes off, use the wide pliers to bend both of the straight
parts of the remaining metal motor case inward and slowly twist it
back and forth until it comes off. If necessary, use the utility
knife to cut into the extended glue as access is gained through
bending the metal motor case. Be sure to pay attention to how the
case is being bent/twisted as doing so in a certain way may
conversely make it harder to remove.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="6">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">New
motors break-in<br />Put the new motors into the motor cage without
the flywheels and clip in the rubber motor holders. Wire the motors
in <u>series</u> to the new system battery. Refer to <u>FA3: How to
break-in electrical motors</u> in the Appendix section at the end of
the guide for complete instructions. <u>Follow the instructions
carefully and do not skip any parts.</u></span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="7">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">(optional)
Trigger linkage rub fix<br />Shave off the trigger linkage movement
restriction as shown below to improve trigger performance. This can
be done with a filer, Dremel or hand drill.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3695/9544589086_4407558c46_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmyLZLFwlkSUnT4i7WN0182Vnyzv2sZZ8RS4BWiCf_gTuHgdXnUn1at8MWbDq9Ip6wVYOAj_xsbT35TLs3c0hRFALIN_8qtj5GGeGQdAQEo7u9Nagq5ccwkhcen0VNwb8Wc_qeTqg9oU/w796-h531-no/Rayven11.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E7.1 –
trigger linkage rub fix</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="8">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">(optional)
Noise/vibration reduction<br />Use Dynamat or craft foam to cover
available areas inside the blaster to dampen motor noise. Multiple
areas as well as layers can be applied inside the blaster, just make
sure that the dampening material does not interfere with mechanical
operation and also that the blaster can be reassembled/closed
properly.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/9541799769_6c16e05e77_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA_Z5XHfeqEmP02VCs2Pj5BT2Ukv9f56fJLnqdriTg8RxDKEk-3AXHITgTOknZYlH1dWl1JUbRRobEbP-bUlrEmqAIDXSICq8HuqNzkPKm_pHQt34vf9JVvKuYza3z0rjegeiFp64v5bM/w796-h531-no/Rayven12.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E8.1 –
craft foam filling</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">In addition, the motor cages can
be hot glued to the blaster frame to further reduce vibration noise.
As a small warning, hot glue melts at a relatively low temperature.
If this procedure is conducted, keep your blaster stored in a cool
area and avoid leaving it in a car during a hot day. Or as an alternative to gluing in your flywheel cage,
perhaps the motor cage housing rods (the rods the motor cage slides
into on the frame) can be encircled with a layer of electrical type
or a few layers of teflon tape. This has not been tested yet and
requires a bit more work, but it should dampen the motor cage
vibration significantly.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="9">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Electrical
rewiring preparation<br />Pop in the flywheels into the new motors and
reassemble the motor cage assembly. Check to make sure that the
rubber dart straightener is properly wrapped around the motor cage.
One of the mounting holes can catch it with its bulge. Slide the
motor cage back onto the blaster. If an external battery is used,
drill a hole anywhere on the blaster's battery cover, as shown
below.</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/9544578984_d4063b1aef_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhum1qYelJEd9yHAaG0z5YlFyBHG2-HHlaQ5Wo37rVzGuPtYuqUqq2BrR4p0LmEdbcpskC48i-jBKyNW8nj5My0q4Cn0PUKU21ANXFvi3a1xzwO0UXMSmhv5bY0TjWDQ3c2sUj3yIo8rlc/w579-h531-no/Rayven13.jpg" width="349" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E9.1 –
battery cover hole</span>
</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="10"><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Drill
another hole on the inside of the battery cage to allow the wire to
be fed into the interior of blaster. It is a good idea to offset the
external and internal holes to provide mechanical stress relief for
the joints. If the stock battery cage is used, modify it
appropriately for serial/parallel configuration. No drilling is
necessary in this case.</span></div>
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Electrical
rewiring<br />The below schematics show the wiring of the new relay
system. Fig. 10.1 shows the new system with braking logic (motors
brake when the accelerator trigger is released, providing a shorter
motor spin down time) and Fig. 10.2 shows the system without braking
logic (motors decelerate passively through friction).</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7355/9544578460_5fc3911f1b_o.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="368" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7355/9544578460_5fc3911f1b_o.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E10.1 –
new relay system with braking logic schematic</span> </div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/9544578340_7b06944040_o.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="368" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/9544578340_7b06944040_o.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. E10.2 –
new relay system without braking logic schematic</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The completed system wiring (with
braking logic) is shown below (click on the image to view/download
the full image).</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7435/9544585176_05330292d7_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf8kjJc54pu84Ct6Y7G8UkqnrleIWDH6K-ZlILqRtkjL3V4B1kE0wl401hSE2fqFYcZwPmTWn8THl8jx3cw4_FPEuc4MHX2C-HUvavkfcUPO0wvt6w6J8Zz_r7boMITKw1gV51lpEYMME/w796-h531-no/Rayven16.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig.
E10.3 – new system wiring</span>
</div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Carefully and thoroughly examine
the system with braking logic schematic (Fig. 10.1) and its
correspondence to the physically completed wiring (Fig. 10.3). In the
schematics above, V<sub>BATT</sub> refers to the positive battery
voltage. All connections connected to V<sub>BATT</sub> should be
soldered to the stock positive battery tab (the tab closer to the
trigger of the blaster). The same applies to the GND destination in
the schematics, but soldered to the negative battery tab instead (the
tab furthest away from the trigger of the blaster). Even if an
external battery is used, soldering the connections to these tabs is
essential to hold the wires in place in case the external battery
wires are pulled. For selecting the proper switch terminals, when the
push button is not pressed, the tab closer to the push button and the
middle tab are connected. When the push button is pressed, the middle
tab and the tab furthest away from the push button are connected.
With this logic and the descriptions within the schematics, it is
possible to determine which switch terminals to use. For the
acceleration trigger <u>and</u> both of the locks, the middle tab and
the tab furthest away from the push button should be used. For these
switch cases, the order at which each wire connects to each tab does
not matter as long as the two wires leading into and out of the
switches on the schematic are used to connect to the two tabs
mentioned above. An internal connections diagram for a SPDT relay is
shown in the schematic. The terminals in this diagram can be mapped
to the relay terminals in the wiring schematic. The terminals labeled
1 and 2 refers to the coil connections on the relay (see relay
datasheet). Most modern relays do not have coil biasing, meaning that
terminals 1 and 2 can connect to the two wires indicated in the
schematic (the ones that are connected to terminals 1 and 2) in any
order. However, if the chosen relay does have coil biasing, make sure
that the positive coil terminal (the terminal where the current flows
into indicated in the relay datasheet) is treated as terminal 1 in
the schematics above. For the relay switching connections, terminal P
in the schematics above refers to the common terminal (see relay
datasheet), terminal O refers to the normally closed terminal (NC,
see relay datasheet), and terminal S refers to the normally open
terminal (NO, see relay datasheet). Familiarize the desired
electrical system (braking/non-braking, locks/no locks) and
imaginatively map out its wiring. When convinced of the system's
logic and operation, hot glue the relay at a convenient location (see
figure above). Trace the new wires corresponding to the new system
throughout the blaster and cut them to their appropriate lengths
(slightly longer than the traced connection to leave a margin for
error). Strip the wires with the utility knife (easier for teflon
wires) or wire stripper. Mentally go over the entire electrical logic
of the system again and solder the wires once confident to do so. If
an external battery is used, do not forget to solder the battery
connection wires to the V<sub>BATT</sub> and GND tabs.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="11">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Testing<br />If
available, use a multimeter to test the electrical connections with
the connectivity test and make sure that the connections match that
of the schematic. If a multimeter is not available, trace the wires
with a finger to validate circuit path. The connectivity test on a
multimeter can also be used across the battery leads to check for a
short. Note, pushing the trigger will not trigger a connection for
this test as the multimeter does not provide power to turn on the
relay. Once the electrical connections are checked, carefully plug
in the battery. Do this slowly and if sparks are seen at the
connector leads or if the motors turn on, quickly unplug the
battery. Otherwise, pull the trigger for a split second right after
plugging in the battery and see if the motors spin. If they do not,
quickly unplug the battery. If the system does not work, recheck the
connections and re-solder joints if necessary. Without a multimeter,
it is difficult to debug the system. If the system still remains
unresponsive, double check the wiring with the schematic and
re-solder every connection.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="12">
<li><div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Reassembly<br />Once
the system is verified operational, work backwards to reassemble the
blaster. Hot gluing loose wires to the blaster is recommended. Make
sure everything that came out of the blaster is put back in,
including the mag well, tactical rail lock and jam door (optional). </span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>
</b></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="F"></a><b>F. Appendix </b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="FA1"></a><b>FA1: How
to unscrew and screw screws correctly</b></span></div>
</div>
<div style="background: transparent; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Many people use a screwdriver
without giving it much thought. However, science can be applied to
this process to avoid stripping screws. Luckily, Nerf uses descent
quality screws on their blasters. The most important thing to do when
unscrewing or screwing a screw is to apply as much pressing force as
rotational force, if not more! Pressing force is important because
the contact between the screwdriver to screw is angled upward for
easy insertion of the screwdriver. However, this means that if
insignificant pressing force is applied with strong rotational force,
the screwdriver will slip against the screw and pop out, damaging the
screw.</span></div>
<div style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> The size and type of the
screwdriver used is also important. Both attributes contribute to how
flush the screwdriver fits with the screw. In terms of size, never
ever use an undersized screwdriver; if anything, use an oversized
one. When screwing, an undersized screwdriver contact the screw where
it is the weakest and most vulnerable to stripping. In addition, low
profile, flat tip screwdrivers are preferred as they dig into the
screw, maximizing the contact area between the screwdriver and screw.
Jeweler's screwdrivers usually have flatter tips than normal ones. A
figure is shown below to demonstrate flatter screwdriver tips.</span></div>
<div style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWg-MEZq-JTl_WAaurmfObOANQzp1eUOPye4GWHLogXAGsmnH1aJ3Hz1Qh4PzPII14oyqN4_rZisuhv26utfmbA31TFTxjGhSOcfjnU-X0CpH-ZNeVIf5mpOmv7xmfQA5Em6n8wbBph6i/s1600/appen_A1_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWg-MEZq-JTl_WAaurmfObOANQzp1eUOPye4GWHLogXAGsmnH1aJ3Hz1Qh4PzPII14oyqN4_rZisuhv26utfmbA31TFTxjGhSOcfjnU-X0CpH-ZNeVIf5mpOmv7xmfQA5Em6n8wbBph6i/s320/appen_A1_1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. FA1.1
– screwdriver comparison: normal on the left, flatter tip on the
right</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">It is possible to grind down the
tips of normal screwdrivers so they dig deeper into screws and create
the same effect as flatter tip screwdrivers. However, purchasing the
right screwdrivers (high quality and/or flatter) is recommended over
this. How well a screwdriver is paired with the screw can be
determine by measuring the screwdriver's fit to the screw. To do
this, insert the screwdriver into a fixed screw (screwed-in screw or
a screw held tightly with fingers), then lightly press the
screwdriver down into the screw and gently turn the screwdriver
clockwise and counter-clockwise in a back and forth motion. If the
fit is good, there should be very little rotational movement that the
screwdriver exhibits during this motion. If the screwdriver rotates
significantly, then it is not a good match to use with the screw. The
largest Philips screwdriver in the Stanley jeweler's precision
screwdriver set is a good screwdriver for Nerf applications: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326267&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+precision+screwdriver+set">amazon
link</a>. Wiha precision screwdrivers work amazingly if quality is
desired: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26194-Screwdriver-Phillips-Precision/dp/B000NZ5QGK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1375326509&sr=8-5&keywords=wiha">amazon
link</a>. The Wiha precision screwdrivers exhibit the tip profile of
a normal screwdriver as opposed to that of the flatter tip
screwdriver. However, they are engineered so precisely that the
screwdriver dig deep into the screw to allow the sidewalls of the
screwdriver and screw to be perfectly flush with each other.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> Another good idea is to layout
the unscrewed screws in positions that correlates to their actual
screw positions on the blaster. This takes up a bit of space, but
with the organization, every screw can be screwed back into the same
screw hole they were unscrewed from. Keeping the screw and screw
holes matched allows for better fitting of the screws. If there is
plastic in between the threads of the screw after removal, clean it
off by squeezing the screw with fingers and rotating the screw
counter-clockwise with a screwdriver. Furthermore, there is also
science behind the order at which the screws are screwed back into
the blaster. The order that the screws should be screwed back in
should start at the center of the body surface and radiate outward.
This means that screws that are nearest to the center of the blaster
shell should be screwed in first while the screws on the edge of the
shell should be screwed in last. If multiple screws are the same
distance away from the center, then randomly select a screw to start
and screw in the remaining screws in an order such that the next
screw is furthest away from the current screw. Examples of correct
screw orders are shown below.</span></div>
<div style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7374/9826562214_5ae86638a6_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02f_e2ZNjrgR8-5d3f2jhHFLc71yoO9NFKBCXRCnlCY9OyqdkYqFvQhgfHLp0yZlEjuz2fJKzlRmUhhHJyBB9AYY5m-WoarRQMGdiKjQ6FAWGZ8xIN5bcM5GCIi9EjYpWAyJH2k_NiVZZ/s320/screw_pattern_example_1.jpg" width="384" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. FA1.2
– equal distance screw order example</span></div>
<div style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/9826585935_3b05ca2d20_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhigEM6xg_ZKvBlRirGc-qDtd7Q5BKAUOr-nDMqo6lQk8siS1gPQRQmUNtvvmU9iTlvHLc0eW0wUjUSLuXVlx6dCR7KiuDkEpQS_YvolJIUE8zqCLKRvXzGc0uevD5H2a2iuqgyaJ9BxiXY/s1600/screw_pattern_example_2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. FA1.3
– radiating and equal distance screw order example</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Screwing screws in the correct
order reliefs stress on the material body, keeps the joint surfaces
flush and allows for more of the screw's retaining force to be used
as bonding force.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> In standard applications, turn
the screwdriver counter-clockwise to unscrew a screw and clockwise to
screw a screw (lefty loosy righty tighty). If a screw does not loosen
with a good amount of force, double check to make sure that the
screwdriver is being turned counter-clockwise to unscrew the screw.
If screwing in a unique position and/or with the non-dominate hand,
mentally double check the rotation of the applied force for
correctness. In certain situations, it may be necessary to verify the
rotation direction with two or more different thought processes, as a
single method alone may be deceiving. When screwing in a screw, it is
wise to first place the screw in the screw hole, then rotate it in
the loosening direction (yes, loosening!) while holding the screw
perpendicular to the screw hole (either with the other hand or by
tilting the screw with the screwdriver) until a small tick or jolt is
heard/felt. Once this happens, reverse the direction of rotation and
start screwing in the screw normally while maintaining the screw
perpendicular to the screw hole. This process assures that the screw
is aligned to the opening groove of the screw hole from the start and
also prevents misalignment between the screw thread and screw hole
groove. For the first few turns of screwing in a screw, apply gentle
force and turn the screwdriver slowly. If strong resistance is felt
while doing this, it means that the screw thread and screw hole
groove is misaligned. When this occurs, stop screwing immediately,
unscrew the screw and restart the screwing process to correct the
error.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> The position where the
screwdriver is gripped to turn it is also a key component of screwing
screws. Screwdrivers have multiple positions to grip for screwing.
The widest gripping area provides the most torque, but is the slowest
screwing speed. The narrowest region provides the fastest screwing
speed, but applies the least torque. The diagram below shows a
cross-section view of a typical screwdriver.</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/9826663123_aa33160bd9_o.jpg"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIys2IEpvVVVhxLzOlKLr8gm4z91nbVAJeC1Cj9U-2w4lGmPHm_NL37YYbaYDhr9TPRgHxnZqu9-_dCiOH60jr3-J3DLDLXux-ow-SW_D_M2Ua8gH47x2SW2FQ9R4gKF29In2kAAFn_-xy/s1600/screwdriver_grip_position.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. FA1.4
– screwdriver grip positions</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Use the high torque area to break
the initial friction when unscrewing a screw or apply sufficient
force to finish screwing in a screw. Once the initial friction is
broken when unscrewing or initially screwing in the screw, use the
high speed area to quickly unscrew or screw a screw. It is also
possible to use the stem of the screwdriver to screw even faster!
Using the high speed area of the screwdriver's grip or the
screwdriver's stem to initially screw in a screw will also make it
easier to detect misalignment and potentially cause less damage from
this error.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="background: transparent; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> Although most of these tips may
seem pointless, following them will prevent hardware damage and
prolong its life. Once these techniques become familiar, they hardly
require any additional time to carryout. If a screwing job is
necessary, put on some music and do it right from the start!</span></div>
<br />
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="FA2"></a><b>FA2: How
to desolder and solder correctly</b></span></div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
Soldering
is a skill that is often utilized without much attention. Just
because two joints appear to be physically connected does not mean
that they will make a good electrical connection. As always, the
right tool will make the job infinitely easier. If DIY or custom
projects are always on the menu, it is definitely worth it to invest
in a high quality soldering iron. For occasional users, a basic
soldering iron from a local electronic shop will do, provided that
the proper technique is used along with some aides. It may seem like
high power soldering irons are made for professionals and electrical
engineers. However, basic soldering applications such as power
connections are actually the jobs that demand these high performance
devices.</div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
To solder
a joint properly, it is crucial that all of the connection surfaces
to be soldered together get heated to the melting temperature of the
solder. In addition, the joint must be allowed to cool without
movement. If these two criteria are achieved, a good electrical
connection is made. Here are the soldering steps that will accomplish
this task easily.</div>
<ol start="1">
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
(optional)
Surface cleaning<br />
This step is optional as most surfaces are
usually susceptible to solder. These surfaces include new/clean
electrical wires and contacts, as well as recently desoldered
connections. If a metal contact is not meant for soldering, there
are a few tricks to make it bond better with solder. Sanding the
surface makes it rough and allows the solder to better stick to the
surface. Using a cleaning agent such as rubbing alcohol or contact
cleaner before soldering is also a good idea by removing
contaminants that may weaken the solder bond.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="2">
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
Tinning
the connections<br />
This step will greatly simplify difficult
soldering tasks such as power connections. Tin all of the separate
connections to be joined by applying the soldering iron on the
connection and pushing a thin layer of solder onto it. It is a good
idea to secure the connection (see figure below) and apply flux to
the connection (see step 3) before tinning. An example of a tinned
wire and contacts are shown in the figure below.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7319/9544604582_d43055c3c9_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQf4jlUgMlQCdzpY9NEyr1D4_SuqRzOlDh5NKYuqtOD75KGFmf8ujD2XziURfL0jduvLOjona57dipXeGOXEMzZvwDoWe44-gzrVjIr9m9oxGgqBLMylqONknnwhNhJVj3a1qY4EMVdSU/w1043-h462-no/fa12.1.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig.
FA2.1 – tinning example</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="3">
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
(optional,
highly recommended) Fluxing the connections<br />
If a budget soldering
iron is used, flux is its favorite companion. Even with a high power
soldering iron, flux will make any soldering job easier. What it
essential does is make solder flow better and near guarantees a good
electrical joint. It also increases thermal contact between the
connections and the iron. To use flux, apply a thin coat of the
liquid substance to the soldering surfaces. Flux comes in various
mediums of dispersion, such as a bottle, can or pen. A pen is
arguably the most convenient. In the end, as long as the flux is
coated onto the surfaces, its dispersion method is insignificant.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="4">
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
Securing
the connections<br />
This is a very important step in soldering. A
common mistake is to rush through this step to quickly jump into
soldering. When this is conducted, chances are the unsecured
connections move during soldering and the entire procedure has to be
repeated, wasting additional time. Instead, patiently and firmly
secure all of the connections to be soldered with third hands,
vices, clamps, tape or any other feasible methods. The surfaces to
be soldered should contact each other with sufficient force to
resist movement during soldering. Well secured connections also
prevent the connections from moving during the cool down process,
satisfying the second criteria necessary to create a good electrical
joint. In conclusion, doing this step properly goes a long way for
the rest of the process. An example of a well secured platform ready
for soldering is shown in the figure below.</div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3804/9544604178_bff9d84c0c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZZH1Yx6FXaa5_vVEsn8_l9dtpveU18FQTAZyZzp0JieiH-vrvxyh5z9XLsybKdsxCMPWrYwkErUI5jAAhmfck-ZreNX2ATs5x6fRZDlcgAia_t7-LeO6Yt8kV0Pbv6m9HX9Ma5-tesU/w1044-h464-no/fa22.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig.
FA2.2 – secured connections example</span>
</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="5">
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
Tinning
the tip<br />
A tinned tip provides maximum heat transfer between the
soldering iron and soldering surfaces. First clean the tip by
swiveling it in a sponge or using a tip cleaner tool. Then, tin the
tip by swiveling it in tip tinner or applying a small amount of
solder around the tip. Clean off the excess material on the tip with
a sponge or a tip cleaner tool. Once this is done, the tip should be
nice and shiny, ready for soldering. Quickly proceed to soldering
afterwards or the tip tinning process will have to be repeated.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="6">
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
Soldering<br />
To
effectively solder a joint, maximum heat transfer from the soldering
iron to the connection surfaces is desired. To do this, apply the
soldering iron to an area on the surface that will form the most
contact with the tip. A common mistake is to use the tip of the iron
tip (pointy part of the tip) to transfer heat. Although convenient,
the very tip of the soldering iron is the least efficient way to
transfer heat. Instead, use the sidewalls of the iron tip to solder.
In addition, applying solder to the sidewalls of the tip <u>after</u>
the iron contacts the desired connection surfaces is another way to
increase heat transfer. Doing this increases the contact area
between the iron and connection surfaces, allowing a higher rate of
heat conduction. Although this method can be used to shorten the
heating process, it is <u>incorrect</u> to solder by flowing solder
through the tip. Flowing solder through the tip should only be used
initially to increase surface contact between the tip and connection
surfaces, it should <u>not</u> be the final step of soldering. Once
solder is applied to the iron tip, it can be directly transferred
and applied to the hot joint by simply relocating the solder feed
from the iron tip to the joint. It is <u>crucial</u> for the final
solder feed process to <u>not</u> touch the iron tip. Once the
solder is able to be easily fed into the joint, the joint is hot
enough to melt the solder and the proper temperature is reached.
Keep applying solder until a layer covers all of the connection
surfaces in the joint, but not so much that it creates a bubble of
solder on the joint. A closeup of a final solder feed example is
shown below.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3734/9541817393_27b4ecae51_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHaL_NTTh2A1G-fJklolKcqdkBYPsVy5uOYS1W_9-sTEbyW0OzZVZiVC7JZ3rsyVolmLqAZF2sDmrUlmcfCbpaDlbq1vrrJ1ucYZheQPvfcU4pIMDoSVJg3ZMW26bC-gT-TgQAHtfVOtA/w618-h531-no/fa23.jpg" width="372" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig.
FA2.3 – soldering example</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Note
that in this example, the soldering iron is applied to the backside
of the connections joint. The soldering iron can be applied anywhere
that allows for good heat transfer. It is a good idea to separate
where the solder is being fed into the joint and where the soldering
iron is applied (shown above) to ensure that the entire joint reaches
the melting point of the solder.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="7">
<li><div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
Lifting
the soldering iron<br />
Once the desired amount of solder is applied,
stop the solder feed and lift the iron from the joint. Do not lift
the iron too fast or too slow, as doing so may cause undesired
solder movement. The iron should be lifted in a quick manner; too
slow will cause the solder to stick onto the iron during the lift
and too fast may do the some thing with a sharp solder trail. If the
solder keeps sticking to the join after a few attempts, apply some
flux to the joint to easily prevent the problem. When soldering
leads that will be cut after the solder such as through-hole
components, it is a good idea to lift the soldering iron by dragging
along the excess lead. This way, any trailing solder will stick to
the excess lead, which will eventually be trimmed. As soon as the
iron is lifted, be <u>sure</u> that none of the connections move
during the cool-down process. If it does, a cold joint that may
exhibit unpredictable electrical characteristics is created. This is
why securing the connections from the beginning is crucial, as
properly doing so will ensure the connections to not move during
cool-down. In addition, do not blow on the joint to speedup the
cooling process. This is a common mistake done by many. It may trap
air pockets under the solder surface and create a cold joint. An
example of well soldered joints is shown below.</div>
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/9544604860_64fc938592_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93cZMBwbujCi02tRkaKK0tvAXYvmEkbFV3-WMcLt_6I5OZ3p71OXMLI5M1Uwtzwi5KxBTdDY0zkkiVymxOF-r8PsEI1y80tFxF0hmMa3y0GqUQX4nC0N1JFD7at_XSW7J2YK4cC3QE3I/w820-h516-no/fa24.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig.
FA2.4 – finished joints example</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Note,
the black burn marks are residual flux from soldering. It can be
cleaned with water or acetone or whatever the flux used is soluble
with.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="8">
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Inspection<br />
In
general, a shiny joint surface indicates that the electrical
connection is good while a jagged joint surface means it is bad.
With leaded solder, it is easy to tell whether a joint is good or
not, as a shiny joint will always imply a good joint while a dull
one will certainly indicate a bad one. However, with lead-free
solder, it is harder to tell because a dull joint surface could mean
a good or bad joint. The only way to distinguish the two is to be
sure that the joint reached the melting temperature of the solder
during soldering and that the joint did not move during the cool
down process. Confirmation of these two conditions will <u>guarantee</u>
a good electrical connection.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Following
the steps outlined above will ensure a proper soldering technique.
With enough practice, soldering will become a simple process. Here
are a few addition tips that may be useful:</div>
<ul>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Use
lead-free solder for high temperature applications, such as motor
and power leads</div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Use
big tips for soldering large joints. Most soldering irons come with
needle tips for soldering small connections. Replace them with
bigger tips to easily and efficiently solder large joints.</div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Always
remember to put in heat shrink before soldering when necessary!</div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Be
aware of the soldering iron and its surroundings, the iron can
unintentionally melt materials as well as cause injuries.</div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Remain
calm and do not get frustrated. Do not skip any steps when
soldering, as it will often take more time to correct the mistakes
caused by them. Do things right from the beginning to ensure a quick
and easy job.</div>
</li>
</ul>
<div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
Regarding
the first tip, it is extremely important to use lead-free solder for
high temperature as well as potential high temperature applications.
The melting point of most leaded solder is 361 <span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">°</span>F,
while 441 <span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">°</span>F is the
common melting point for lead-free solder. Although most hobby
systems should never reach these temperatures, using lead-free solder
will ensure a reliable connection under extreme conditions.</div>
<div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
In
terms of advanced soldering techniques, temperature setting of the
soldering iron is important. Different chemical compositions of
solder have unique melting properties. Some have a melting range,
where the temperature at which the solder melts varies greatly and/or
may gradually melt over a temperature range. Others have a defined
melting point, where the solder instantly transforms from a solid to
a liquid at a certain temperature. There may also be maximum
temperature restrictions, where the solder cannot form a good
electrical connection when soldered above a certain temperature. All
of these attributes can be found within the solder's
description/datasheet. One thing to keep in mind is that the solder
iron's temperature setting does <u>not</u> equate to the soldering
joint's temperature. Heat transfer occurs over time. A greater
temperature difference between two objects (iron and joint) means
faster heat transfer during contact, allowing for faster soldering. A
solder with a maximum temperature limit does not mean the soldering
iron used to solder it cannot be set above that limit. If the iron is
applied briefly to the joint, the joint will not reach the iron's
temperature and it will be within the maximum temperate limit of the
solder. If the solder is sensitive to its upper temperature limit,
the iron temperature should not be set far above the specification.
It is recommended that beginners use a relatively low iron
temperature setting and gradually increase it over experience until a
favorable setting is acquired. In general, do not set the iron
temperature above 850 <span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">°</span>F.
It is also good practice to never apply the soldering iron for more
than a few seconds after the joint reaches the melting point of the
solder (a few seconds after the solder is easily feed-able).</div>
<div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
A
few recommended soldering supplies are listed below:</div>
<ul>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
High-power
soldering iron<br />
-<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Hakko
FX-888: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888-FX-888-Soldering-Station/dp/B004M3U0VU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375338930&sr=8-2&keywords=hakko+fx+888">amazon</a><br />-Weller
WES51 Analog Soldering Station: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376650643&sr=8-1&keywords=welder+soldering+iron">amazon</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Lead-free
solder (99.3% Tin, 0.7% Copper; for high temperature
applications)<br />-MG chemicals 4901 Sn99: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Copper-Solder-Diameter/dp/B008UH43YE/ref=sr_1_18?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1376648228&sr=1-18&keywords=lead+free+solder">amazon</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Leaded
solder (63% Tin, 37% Lead; for low temperature applications)<br />-MG
Chemicals 4880 Series: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Series-Leaded-Diameter/dp/B008UH41KU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1376650997&sr=1-1&keywords=mg+chemicals+solder">amazon</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Tip
cleaner<br />-Hakko Tip Cleaner 599B-02: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Cleaner-599B-02-Non-Corrosive-Needed/dp/B000PDQORU/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1376649094&sr=8-16&keywords=solder+sucker">amazon</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Water
soluble flux<br />-SRA #80 Water Soluble Soldering Flux Pen: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/SRA-80-Water-Soluble-Soldering/dp/B008OC24EQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1376650724&sr=1-2&keywords=Water+Soluble+Soldering+Flux+Pen">amazon</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Tip
tinner<br />-MG Chemicals 4901 SAC305: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-SAC305-Copper-container/dp/B003BDOEUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376649568&sr=8-1&keywords=tip+tinner">amazon</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Solder
Sucker/Desoldering pump<br />-Paladin Tools 1700 Desoldering Tool:
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1700-Desoldering-Standard/dp/B0012YJ3HO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1376649200&sr=8-5&keywords=solder+sucker">amazon</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Desoldering
braid<br />-Chemtronics 10-5L: <a href="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chemtronics/10-5L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuzEnlwMwYUNpBvLOHzqXuYEQqkgn%2BBp9Y=">mouser</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Large
diameter heat shrink<br />-(black) Panduit HSTT25-48-Q: <a href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=HSTT25-48-Qvirtualkey64400000virtualkey644-HSTT25-48-Q">mouser</a><br />-(red)
Panduit HSTT25-48-Q2: <a href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=HSTT25-48-Q2virtualkey64400000virtualkey644-HSTT25-48-Q2">mouser</a></span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Small
diameter heat shrink<br />-(black) Panduit HSTT12-48-Q: <a href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=HSTT12-48-Qvirtualkey64400000virtualkey644-HSTT12-48-Q">mouser</a><br />-(red)
Panduit HSTT12-38-Q2: <a href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=HSTT12-48-Q2virtualkey64400000virtualkey644-HSTT12-48-Q2">mouser</a></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="FA3"></a><b>FA3:
How to break-in electrical motors</b></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> The
motor break-in process is very important. Not only does it increase
motor life, it also significantly increases motor performance. For a
brushed DC motor, the break-in process transforms the brushes,
bushing or bearings and other moving/sliding parts from their new,
out of the factory state to their normal operating state. Ideally,
the break-in process for this type of electric motor starts by
applying a voltage above the no load stall voltage, then slowly
increasing the motor speed with intervals of voltage bursts. This
process would require a motor driver, which is quite inconvenient.
Since a flywheel system requires two motors, an easy way to break-in
the motors is by connecting them in series to the battery (as oppose
to parallel, which is normally how they are connected for maximum
power). This will run the motors at approximately half of their final
running speeds, assuming the same battery is used that will power the
finished system. If the motors are slightly, or even significantly
out of balance with respect to each other, it should not be a problem
since all this will do is make one motor run somewhat faster than the
other during the break-in process. As long as the motors do not have
load on them and are below the advertised maximum operating voltage,
it should not be a concern. One thing to note is to remove the
decoupling capacitors on the motors (most aftermarket motors such as
all Tamiya Mini series motors and RM2s do not have them, the PNs do)
before performing this process, as the capacitors will randomly
change the impedance of the motors from the brushes noise and make
the load on the motors unbalanced. The schematic for the electrical
connection of this break-in process is shown below.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/9541817121_378c7b4b98_o.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/9541817121_378c7b4b98_o.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. FA3.1
– serial motors break-in process schematic</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">One thing to double check is the
orientation of the battery connections to ensure that the flywheels
spin the right way. A picture of the actual system is shown below.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7409/9544606958_d5b95234de_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKm9dVVDQ7CXmBXwZGr_SKYmbGJPqIFVJsAAnsqIwul1gSEyYdwsvaUNeO8zdlbVnexHsR2tl_55DiCa20AW3p5gExJauVYPB5RAyMwNdIub5-eaqLdhFt3MEgayn-Z452L374xcibenQ/w796-h531-no/fa32.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig.
FA3.2 – actual break-in process picture</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 132;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Note that the motors are already
placed in the flywheel cage. This is convenient because the motors do
not have to be secured, but the flywheel cage does (tape it down to a
surface with electrical tape). Also note that the positive connection
has not been applied to the motors yet in the picture to avoid
running the motors while taking the picture. Lastly, just because
connecting the motors in series works for this process does not mean
it can be used for the final build as a way of halving the voltage
across the motors. Ideally, this will work in the perfect world. But
in this world with its infinite random variables, a set voltage must
be applied across the motors by connecting them in parallel with the
battery.</span><br />
<br />
<div style="page-break-inside: avoid; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>
</b></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" id="FB1"></a><b>FB1 : How
to select an electrical power system: motor and battery</b></span></div>
</div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> All
current (mid 2013) Nerf flywheel blasters use 130-sized motors with a
25 mm length (there are 130-sized motors that are longer). A popular
replacement for these stock motors is the Solarbotics RM2 motors.
Additional alternatives include all of the Tamiya Mini series motors.
Although the Tamiyas run at considerably lower voltage (3V) comparing
to the RM2s, their ultra high Kv more than makes up for it. Tamiyas
are to a Ferrari as the RM2s are to a Lamborghini. One is finely
engineered while the other is purely brutal. At this point, choosing
between the two types is mostly based on preference. In terms of the
performance, a range test was conducted between the two motors and
the results are inconclusive. Once the chronometer is built
(currently under construction), a comparison will be made again and
the results will be posted. The Tamiyas might be a bit more
expensive, but there are also built with higher quality, making them
more reliable and consistent. Battery availability should also be
considered when choosing between the motors.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> Although
the motors can be chosen indifferently, the batteries cannot. The
motor and battery combination must be carefully matched to optimize
the system. Since there are various types and vast numbers of
different batteries out there, but only a few choices of motors, it
is easier to first select the motor as the limiting factor, and then
match the battery to the selected motor. For the most part, there are
only two key specifications of a battery that needs to be considered:
output voltage and maximum burst current. In terms of the output
voltage, simply match it to, or slightly higher above (over-volting),
the specified maximum operating voltage of the motor. There is a
small tricky part to this step. The advertised voltage of a battery
is usually not the voltage it outputs at full charge. For example,
the advertised voltage of a rechargeable NiMH AA battery may be 1.2
V, but it can output as high as 1.46 V when charged. Similarly, the
advertised voltage for a LiPo cell is 3.7 V, but it outputs 4.2 V
when charged. The reason for this is because the advertised voltage
is usually the nominal, storage and/or some other defined voltage
parameter of the battery. However, this does not mean that it is
their highest capable output voltage. Another important parameter to
consider is the output voltage of the battery as a function of time
during use. Normal Alkaline batteries' voltage decreases linearly
with time. NiMH rechargeable batteries' voltage decreases in an
inverse exponential form, allowing them to maintain their maximum
output voltage for longer.</span></div>
<div style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUIx7O-eZWJP712c58SlsjSYF03ZTEeah3c7ExAcMrBQfJPElgOjJo5DqiB2EMd0s-VNkZBxx7qrIBy0v-dT1dNKe0NXugkAkvlPRch0KlFmegpCGYeSRcZN8fiTec7uMPSmV-iAeF_w/s1600/fb11.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUIx7O-eZWJP712c58SlsjSYF03ZTEeah3c7ExAcMrBQfJPElgOjJo5DqiB2EMd0s-VNkZBxx7qrIBy0v-dT1dNKe0NXugkAkvlPRch0KlFmegpCGYeSRcZN8fiTec7uMPSmV-iAeF_w/s400/fb11.png" width="480" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Fig. FB1.1
– voltage vs. time comparison</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Although it is encouraged to
develop a system based on preference, please make sure to choose
parts that match the desired specifications to create a high
performance, durable system.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> A common modification conducted
by the Nerf community is to use unprotected TrustFire 14500 batteries
in their systems. Although this modification is simple, clean and
cheap, engineering-wise, it is a terrible design and highly not
recommended. The TrustFire 14500 has a maximum continuous discharge
current of 2.5 C, which means that the maximum burst output current
is approximately 4.5 A. The stall current of a RM2 motor at 12.6 V is
around 12.42 A (probably around 6.21 A for a flywheel system). With
two RM2 motors for a flywheel system, the required burst current is
24.84 A (or 12.42 A for a flywheel system), which is no where near
what the TrustFire batteries are capable of producing. Evidence of
this can be physically observed by the slow speedup time of a
RM2-TrustFire system. Currently, LiPo batteries are the best type of
batteries to use in a hobby-level, high power electrical system. The
new generation of LiPo batteries are very safe and reliable, provided
that they are used correctly. They are capable of producing immense
power, able to contain high capacity, relatively light, widely
available and cheap. They also have a high number of recharge cycles
for its lifetime. The downsides for using LiPo batteries are that it
requires a special charger which costs around $40, and also it may be
dangerous when handled by a novice. To create the best system
possible, LiPo batteries are an absolute necessity because of their
low internal resistance. If moderate modifications are desired, other
battery types will do the job so long as the specifications are met.
Instead of using TrustFire batteries, RC-grade NiMH packs are a good
alternative. They are usually rated for anywhere from 10 to 20 A of
continuous current and are extremely safe, with almost no possibility
of catching fire in any condition.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> Below are a few useful battery
equations:</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwPzw8P0E5k3xntYeSsi37j96yOU6nkjen_FBiimD2HUqT9vJcl7vaT-GMM9qq1bFx-pQw3ACEL-UEuRp6nmLdy9YAOIURvWaNWAXlE_R45x8vkyKhjj_QsC5PCPHdBwHmOFq3ljA-50/s1600/eq11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwPzw8P0E5k3xntYeSsi37j96yOU6nkjen_FBiimD2HUqT9vJcl7vaT-GMM9qq1bFx-pQw3ACEL-UEuRp6nmLdy9YAOIURvWaNWAXlE_R45x8vkyKhjj_QsC5PCPHdBwHmOFq3ljA-50/s1600/eq11.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Equation
FB1.1 – continuous current equation</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Note, C<sub>n</sub> is the
normalization constant for the discharge rate calculation.
Specifications for a battery usually lists I<sub>cont</sub> as the
following:</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Discharge rate: 25C</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">This implies that the continues
discharge rate (I<sub>cont</sub>) is equal to 25 times the capacity
of the battery in Ah. In this case, 25 is the C<sub>n</sub>. I<sub>cont</sub>
should be greater than the continuous current of the motor(s) under
light load (powering flywheels).</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mh5AspgGg3Y5SgyEGVwYAyimJ8j0SV35ihHUA8Os-dSLtKwNWiKXwT16j-awV8vAfaCWWQV8zbJEQopy43KoGVOkzaehzq-ll7D6K0HJJwey4dxQddTjL2QoUjyu_QKO5WnSqMn-6uo/s1600/eq12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mh5AspgGg3Y5SgyEGVwYAyimJ8j0SV35ihHUA8Os-dSLtKwNWiKXwT16j-awV8vAfaCWWQV8zbJEQopy43KoGVOkzaehzq-ll7D6K0HJJwey4dxQddTjL2QoUjyu_QKO5WnSqMn-6uo/s1600/eq12.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Equation
FB1.2 – max current approximation</span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">This approximation is valid for
most types of batteries such as LiPo batteries. <u>I</u><sub><u>max</u></sub><u>
should be greater than the stall current of the motor(s).</u></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-WqKbdG6RngGV2-F5ZzjzfmNlOpdocI_FYkpgTaftJWmWkVHmOWpKofWQgQevojRvsBACp1D8PvPH2SdVbBtu_pgP78SreFf_kARUuvPmyFFDXepy4B68lhyphenhyphenz9AYxQuELMnllOjadmc/s1600/eq13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-WqKbdG6RngGV2-F5ZzjzfmNlOpdocI_FYkpgTaftJWmWkVHmOWpKofWQgQevojRvsBACp1D8PvPH2SdVbBtu_pgP78SreFf_kARUuvPmyFFDXepy4B68lhyphenhyphenz9AYxQuELMnllOjadmc/s1600/eq13.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Equation
FB1.3 – battery run time approximation in minutes</span></span></div>
<div align="CENTER" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 4;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> A few good sources for motor and
battery purchase are listed below:</span></div>
<ul>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Hobbylinc:
<a href="http://www.hobbylinc.com/">http://www.hobbylinc.com/</a><br />Comments:
Stocks almost every Tamiya Mini series motors with a good discount.
Fast shipping and handling (~1 week package arrival).</span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">TamiyaUSA:
<a href="http://www.tamiyausa.com/">http://www.tamiyausa.com/</a><br />Comments:
MSRP pricing on Tamiya motors, but good stock availability (in case
Hobbylinc is out). Medium shipping and handling speed (<3 weeks
package arrival)</span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Pololu:
<a href="http://www.pololu.com/">http://www.pololu.com/</a><br />Comments:
Good source for RM2s and other industrial-type 130-sized motors.
Fast shipping and handling (~1 week package arrival).</span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Tower Hobbies:
<a href="http://www.towerhobbies.com/">http://www.towerhobbies.com/</a><br />Comments:
Great source for many RC batteries. Also stocks some Tamiya motors.
Handling is fast but the value shipping method is slow (~2 weeks
package arrival with value shipping).</span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Hobbypartz:
<a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/">http://www.hobbypartz.com/</a><br />Comments:
Huge selection of high quality as well as cheap LiPo batteries (high
quality Chinese LiPos). Availability is somewhat low (they sell out
really fast after receiving stock). Good source for a LiPo charger
as well. Fast shipping and handling (~1 week package arrival).</span></div>
</li>
<li><div align="LEFT" style="font-weight: normal; page-break-inside: avoid; widows: 1;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Hobbyking:
<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/index.asp">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/index.asp</a><br />Comments:
Huge selection and availability of RC batteries including decent
quality LiPos (average quality Chinese LiPos). Shipping and handling
is fast for the USA warehouse products (<2 weeks package
arrival), slow for the international warehouse products (3 weeks to
2 months package arrival).</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
azraelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09255114834565198551noreply@blogger.com10